Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Any idea a cheap source for a Campag Record (black) front hub, or have a clean one to sell me? Just built a rear from an NOS I got at a jumble and I'd prefer a matched pair.

Will I see any advantage switching from tb14s to something like a velocity a23 rim? My mate is selling some wheels cheap and I'm considering having them.

Try @thecycleclinic. He seems to have a good line on Campag parts: http://thecycleclinic.co.uk/

Will I see any advantage switching from tb14s to something like a velocity a23 rim

All else being equal, no. On the test bed, there are tiny differences, but they're immeasurably small in a whole-bike scenario.

my rear wheel has a lot of lateral movement (I only weigh 55kg as well). Going up hill it has recently started rubbing on the brakes. Likely cause/ solution?

They are chris king hubs with a few thousand miles on them since Ive owned them.

Going up hill it has recently started rubbing on the brakes. Likely cause/ solution?

Brakes adjusted too close to the rim :-)

Stiff rim, slack spokes.

A23 are really really crap rims.

nah, this issue has only just come about and there is a lot of movement.

I have also checked the preload on the bearings and its not that.

@Emyr it could be this.

The velocity rim is 70 lighter and stiffer so a lower spoke count is possible. Difference are small though. Depends how much you like collecting wheels. If your like me you have both ride neither and build or buy another set.

@mdcc_tester @Emyr

check the vid out, it moves to the left especially. Apols in advance for portrait but I oculdnt hold my phone any other way..

https://sendvid.com/0zee32r9

Archetypes on sale for ~£30 at hubjub at the moment.

Nice cat ^_^

Alas, can't help with the wheel problem. I showed the video to a friend of mine (hope that was OK didn't mention your Lfgss id with it) who said:

= loose bearings (but you already checked)
= broken hub flange (let's hope not)
= fractured fork end/dropout
= fractured spoke seat in rim
= uneven spoke tension
= hub q/r loose or broken

Chris King is quality, so I guess spoke tension may be it?

Would appreciate everyones recommendations for rims to build up into a road disc wheelset.

Will probably run 28c tyres as default and will defintely have a dynamo front hub

HED Belgium 25+ disc specific rims are bloody excellent but pricy, something like £130 at RRP. And for the best dynamo hub it would have to be a SON Delux. Just built one of these up recently actually.
At more of a budget, perhaps a Shutter Precision with a Pacenti SL25 or Mavic XM719 rim.

First ever wheel done. I borrowed a wheel stand, found the truing actually pleasant to do.

Always buy spare nipples...you will round one (I did, yes I had) that's not always mentioned in tutorials.

Emotions encountered: Frustration (eh what did I do wrong this time?) inadequacy (how hard is this lacing), disappointment (how long does this take) determination (It'll get done, or else) , the flow of it (tighter, looser, bit to the right...) joy (tadaa! Yay me) now it's done.

Not a job unless you've time to spare. Took me several hours...4 respokes and truing always takes a few hours. But you've a wheel at the end so... :)

Onwards upwards to the next one.

Thanks - given its my first foray in dynamo lighting, it will definitely be the Shutter precision

Nice one on the wheel.

Concerning the rounded nipples, are you using a spoke wrench with four sides on the flats to better interface with it? There are many three - sided wrenches out there and they can result in rounded nipples.

Tx ^=^

It's a park tool tw-8 Looks like 3 sided... ?

I can get a 4 sided one its not that they're expensive ^=^

The wheel will not magically start flexing more. That flex maybe normal for that wheel. I have very stiff wheels that show that kind of movement if I pull the wheel. My HED belgium C2 tubulars 28H built onto record hubs (silver ones 28H) with sapim CX-ray spokes are a good example, I can even get brake rub but that because my pads are too close. The wheels are very stiff in that N/mm of deflection is quite high but when I pull on the rim I see movement. All my medium depth or deeper rims show this. My really unstiff wheels (very shallow tubular wheels) with Mavic GEL280 rims show the same deflection at the brake pads but are far less stiff. Conclusion rim depth is the factor you are not considering here.

Wheel stiffness and flex at the brake pads are NOT related as directly as you might think. What rim, spoke count and spoke type is being used. This "issue" has been present all along but you are now noticing it because something other than the wheel has changed.

See this article for a full explaination.
http://www.rouesartisanales.com/article-15505311.html

Brake rub is one of those things that can happen and the other factor you have not considered is the frame. If the frame is less stiff than the wheels guess what brake rub happens. I have the same issue on one of my steel bikes. A stiff set of wheels in a skinny tubed steel bike and rub happens. I can cure it somewhat with a less stiff set of wheels or is it because the less stiff wheels use a shallower rim. Not sure a bit of both in truth.

A change of tyres may also be at fault. Some tyres cause a significant tension drop and that may lead to excessive flex when riding due to NDS rear spokes going slack.

the DS rear spokes should be tensioned to 1200N. If its that then there is no problem to be fixed. When customers come in with this issue and I explain it to them I get the look like I am making it up. I am not things are not what they seem.

I've a derp q btw before I move on to set of wheels 2 (H Plus Son): How important is even spoke tension?

On my prev set of wheels (hand built with help) I've some looser spokes (in pairs usually) but the wheel is round/true within 1 mm (I can live with that, no patience for 0.5 mm) Same with the one I did yesterday, hand built all by myself.

It seems to me it's impossible to get all spokes "sound" the same on one side, unless the spokes and rim are perfect?

See this article for a full explaination.
rouesartisanales.com/article-­15505311.html

Actually this article, for a partial explanation:
http://www.rouesartisanales.com/article-23159755.html

Roues Artisanales cover the basics, but the position where maximal rim deflection occurs due to drive torque is a bit complicated. Sometimes a stiff wheel will rub because the maximal deflection occurs at the brake position, whereas a less stiff wheel doesn't rub because although the maximal deflection is greater, there is a deflection minimum at the brake position. I think Zipp may have published some stuff on this.

Looking to get some advice on a wheelset I’m going to build. I’m 75kg~ and the wheels will be used for mainly fair weather road riding, no commuting or racing. I’m relatively certain on which hubs & rims to choose: Hope Mono RS & H Plus Son Archetype.

Regarding spoke count, I appreciate the consensus for a do-it-all wheelset is 32/32 but would a drop to 24/28 be possible considering rider weight?

For spokes, does the aero benefit of CX-Rays make a big enough difference to worry about in a higher spoke count wheel? Or is it sensible just to stick with Comps/Race? (or Alpine III for the improved elbow strength?)

Thanks.

If you go 24/28 you can use DA hubs. Just a thought.

big enough difference to worry about...

You're already worrying about it ;-) so go for the fastest (cx-ray) unless budget is a consideration.