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tb
I go along Rye Lane every day and yes, it is pretty much the inferno of ambling-around-in-the highway, boxes of fish, etc, you describe.
Having said all that, a lot of the people on bikes I see then go on to ride up the 'canal path' like massive and unredeemable whoppers, so honours are about even I think. I often go up Sumner Road instead.
There is a parallel route to Rye Lane but I keep getting lost on it.