Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

wow - some kind of witchcraft!

Tap to M6 and use M6 bolt is cheaper: helicoil is more expensive, more professional, less chance of it getting very odd looks if anyone else works on it.

Any troubles about tie and solder a double butted spokes on a 36h - 3 crosses pattern?
Thanks

Tie and solder has not been shown to make a wheel much stiffer or stronger, and you can accidentally overheat spokes if you do it. It's a pain if one breaks too.

http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/tied-soldered.html

Now if you're doing it cos it's cool looking, well, go for it, if it's for performance probably not worth it ^_^

Tie and solder has not been shown to make a wheel any stiffer or stronger

ftfy. Soldering spokes is a bit like homeopathy.

Bit OT here but what's the easiest way to remove the white H+ Son decals for a black anodised archetype?

didn't know where to post this. can i save this disc wheel?

Is it still true? (then it's a fine hhsb wheel)

If the disc is only a fairing on a spoked wheel, then you can use it on the track as well.

can i save this disc wheel?

Save it from what? If that's the extent of the damage and it runs true, it's fine. I've cut away more than that from mine to make it easier to get the pump chuck on.

it's still true yes, and no not just a faring on these. thanks both for the advice it's what i wanted to hear :)

Hi everyone I'm new to wheel building and would like some help.

I have some mack low flange hubs and h plus son tb14 28h on order.

I was looking at spokes and nipples but have no idea were to start.

What sort of gauge do I need? and what are all the differences In models?

What sort of gauge do I need?

14g (2.0mm) at the ends, 15g (1.8mm) or 16g (1.6mm) in the middle. There's not really much difference between DT Comp, Sapim Race and ACI. I happen to like DT Alpine III for most wheels which are 2.3mm at the bend, but even I don't think they're actually necessary for most purposes.

I weigh 65kg so should I take this into account?

I weigh 65kg so should I take this into account?

It's not a weight which requires any special consideration in wheel building. If you were 165kg we'd be making comments.

Hahaha I see. So what's with the gauge sizes? Sorry I can't get my head around this.

So what's with the gauge sizes? Sorry I can't get my head around this.

Which bit don't you understand? Spoke gauges used to be given in SWG, but are now more often in mm diameter. You don't actually need to worry about them, just get normal gauge double butted spokes from any of the main manufacturers.

Brilliant. I'll have a look and if I get stuck I'll ask. Thanks for your help. +1

Ok, first time installing a cassette. 10sp Shimano 105 onto a Superstar Components hub. The hub comes with a splined spacer for any cassette smaller than 11sp. When I removed the cassette from its previous home, it had a thin metal spacer after the largest sprocket. Do I still need this metal spacer? Or does the supplied one replace it? I'm erring on the side of not needing the metal one.

You need both. The 1.85mm spacer the wheel came with converts it from Shimano 11 speed to Shimano 9 speed width, the 1mm spacer which came with the 105 cassette is needed for a 10 speed cassette, as Shimano 10 speed cassettes are narrower than 9 speed cassettes.

Thanks, much appreciated.

https://leonard.io/edd/ ok, so using this with Track Hubs and Hson Archetype new version, 28H, 2 cross, I get different lengths for left and right spokes.

This seems to be unique only to HSON, I don't get a difference with Mavic Open Pro...is there some offset in the Archetypes? (that other rims don't have...)

Tx ^=^

The new archetype data on there has 3mm offset spoke bed.

No idea if that's correct for the actual rims though.

My first attempt in wheelbulding. Got all the measurements, calculated the spokelenghts aaandd... well. f*ck.

i can't find spokes in 293mm, only 292 OR 294. which one to go? 292 or 294?

1 Attachment

292