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Might paint splatter / fade it, instead of going all in
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Stem is too far away from the headtube (35mm of spacers ¯_(ツ)_/¯ ) to make it look good / seamless. Tbh, I can do the spacer whenever I fancy, so I'll leave it for now.
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no. too much matchy matcy
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@Mechamorgan i have a spare conical spacer off my supersix if you paint yours and decide you don't like it
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Absolutely howling laughing at the state of this
Finished building the bike, took it to my LBS for a final bit of fiddling and to true the rear wheel which was rubbing slightly on my stays. No worries, I though, just Superstar builds being shit.
UNFORTUNATELY my frame is about a millimeter out of alignment at the dropouts, presumably after the repair I had done earlier this year.
Options are, A) redish the wheel to align it better with the rest of the frame. Makes for a less stable wheel, but will keep it moderately strait. B) Put my old Ksyrium on at the rear, the slimmer tyre and rim mean the wheel doesn't interfere with the frame. Just shit though, shit idea. C) Contact the guy who made the repair and ask him to realign it under warranty.
Whichever way, the idea of meeting my mates for training tomorrow is out of the fucking window. sigh.
p.s. it's 6.9kg built.
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Whichever way, the idea of meeting my mates for training tomorrow is out of the fucking window. sigh.
Why? Surely you just put the old Ksyrium on at the rear until you find a resolution, no?
Personally I'd contact the carbon repair guy, see what he says and in the meantime just riding it with the Ksyrium or a 23mm tyre.
Either way it sucks that you've only found out now.
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What Howard said.
It'll be just as strong. My front fat bike Wheel is dished to feck, and I abuse the feck out of that. 1mm on a rear is nothing.
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bit under 1mm at the dropout, but obviously this is exaggerated a lot by the edge of the wheel.
I was considering filing one edge of the DS dropout, to straighten things out, but that seems like a kind of rash option.
Don't really want to redish the wheel, as it's straight and true at present. Making something else wonky to allow for existing wonkiness seems totally wrongheaded.
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I was thinking as a quick fix to ride.
Contact the repair folk obviously.
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Wrongheaded is exactly my approach to bicycle mechanics.....
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Making something else wonky to allow for existing wonkiness seems totally wrongheaded
I don't understand your criteria for defining something as wrongheaded. Re-dishing a wheel takes a couple of minutes, is trivial, non destructive and nonperminant. Yet riding a reparied CF frame is OK?
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Sorry, I wasn't trying to say your advice was bad! You're totally correct in that redishing the wheel isn't a big deal. I mean that the problem here lies in the dropout, and in my mind, redishing the wheel (which is currently straight and true, hence, correct and good) to counteract this just strikes me as completely counterintuitive. I've got a bit of a pedants mindset for stuff like this though, it's just me.
Tbh I would rather file the dropout, as it would solve the issue for good. Slightly worried about fucking it up tho.
I've been riding this frame for 6 months though, and although it's slightly out of alignment, its not put a foot wrong otherwise. Ask @hoops, he fixed his own BMC and it's been fine. My friend Alex is on a Supersix with a replaced chainstay, and he puts that through some horrendous stuff. Personally I don't have an issue with repaired CF.
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Ive been riding a BMC with 3 separate repairs (all of which i did myself) for years. It's fine. Have climbed, and descended many Cols on said bike with no issue. I really wouldn't be fussed about 1mm of mis alignment. It's pointless. It's a repaired frame, accept it as such and ride it.
Good work on the paint BTW. Fade should go lower though IMHO. Hopefully it will last at least a week before the paint starts to fall off!
Sorry i didnt respond to your question last week, I was riding my dodgy BMC around the Pyrenees.
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Carbon is tough shit man, I still see Kestral frames from the 90's rolling around, no issues.
The problem with the dropout isn't that it's been repaired, it's that the alignment means the wheel is rubbing the frame... I have ~1mm clearance on the NDS stay, and about 6-7mm on the DS. It also makes it impossible to align the brake properly.
This is also the reason that re-dishing the wheel won't work well enough - the wheel will still be canted over to the left. Brakes won't align and will pulse, bearings will wear quicker and the shifting won't be spot on. It might clear the stay but it ain't right ¯_(ツ)_/¯
TY for the kind words on the fade, means a lot! My initial idea was to have the fade go lower, and then to remove the decals after the pink was on, but after I stuck the gloss decals on over the matte, it looked really good so I decided to keep them. Obviously, they lost their gloss after I clearcoated the frame but whatcha gunna do. Finish on the black is solid as a rock, although I might have to be a bit more careful about the pink...
I hope the Pyrenees was rowdy brah
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Huge and unlimited shout outs to Ed at http://londoncarbonrepairs.co.uk, who did the initial repair.
I shot over a couple of photos today, and discussed filing the dropout and whether this would be covered by warranty. He said that I'm welcome to file down the Ti dropout and see if I can get the wheel to align slightly better, but if I can't, he'd be happy to replace the dropout against the warranty. What a guy.
Gunna give a it a very careful file down tomorrow, hopefully I can get it to sit proper.
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Filed down the ti dropout by about 1.5mm, wheel is now aligning fine. Last bit of messing about at the bike shop and we're done.
Still might paint that spacer, but that can wait.
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About
Cannondale SuperSix Evo kids bike
Posted by
@MechaMorgan
Yeah do it