Any question answered...

You can disclaim away negligence, except where it causes personal injury or death, but only where it's reasonable to do so and only where the disclaimer is brought to the other party's attention. In this case, since it's presumably being relied upon as a contractual term, it would have to satisfy the requirement of reasonableness in the Unfair Contract Terms Act 1977 and the Unfair Terms in Consumer Contracts Regulations 1999. Which it wouldn't, given the laughably broad terms in which it's drafted.

stealth to the passengers’ property

wut.

Is £70 posted too much to pay for a pair of lightly used 105 5700 shifters?

Seems a bit steep when they're being cleared out of shops at £96

Can't believe I missed them, cheers Tester.

Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I take it these will work fine with DA7800 mechs?

I take it these will work fine with DA7800 mechs?

Somebody has done a really good job of trying to answer that question:
http://www.celebrazio.net/bicycling/shimano_compatibility.html

I can't see why you couldn't pair ST-5700 with RD-7800, but that combination doesn't appear in any of the official charts because RD-7800 was discontinued before ST-5700 was released. Front compatibility might be an issue, as I have a feeling that 5700/6700/7900 have a different pull ratio compared with 5600/6600/7800

Oh shimano why can't you be straightforward.

Looks like my plan of switching out the 7800 shifters for 5700 105 for hidden cabling and newness is flawed.

That's a down-grade anyway, although the brakes got better.

You can disclaim away negligence, except where it causes personal injury or death, but only where it's reasonable to do so and only where the disclaimer is brought to the other party's attention. In this case, since it's presumably being relied upon as a contractual term, it would have to satisfy the requirement of reasonableness in the Unfair Contract Terms Act 1977 and the Unfair Terms in Consumer Contracts Regulations 1999. Which it wouldn't, given the laughably broad terms in which it's drafted.

Thanks for that, I've pretty much copy and pasted your post into my response.

Do you mean the levers or the calipers? The 7800 calipers are the most powerful road brakes I've ever used, they're mega.

Just changing the shifters rather than group, I've got 11sp Shimano on the croix and I prefer the shifting action of the more recent stuff to the feel of the 7800 units.

Looks like I'm going to swap out the shifters and the front mech, and just clean off the 105 logos.

I noticed my chain is sometimes slack and sometimes pretty much taught, and the slackness seems to be linked to to position of the wheel. I.e. Rotating the wheel 360° makes the chain go from taught to slack and back again.

I don't know why I haven't noticed this earlier but I replaced the cog a few months ago so I assume that's the source of the problem.

I popped the cog off and went at it with some vernier calipers. The distance between the bottom of the trough between teeth, and the thread varies between 13.5mm and 14.1mm is that enough to cause this issue?

It's a 17T 3/32 Soma Fabrications, fwiw.

If it's not the cog, is my hub probably boned?

Check your chainring too.

More likely to be your cranks/chainring.

Sheldon has a piece on how to even the tension.

I thought that was more likely, but I've been spinning the wheel for ages and the chain always becomes slack when the valve lines up with the seat-stay.

That said, the cranks were also screwed and I'm halfway through replacing them. I just put the new ones on and when spinning them round, the chain ring seems to be slightly off centre :(

I'll just tell people I have an elliptical drive train and it's intentional

DIY Q-rings?

Front and back!

The distance between the bottom of the trough between teeth, and the thread varies between 13.5mm and 14.1mm is that enough to cause this issue?

Yes, it's plenty. Let's give them the benefit of the doubt and say the pitch circle really is a circle but with its centre 0.3mm away from the centre of the bore. If the chain is exactly the right length with the sprocket in it's most rearward position, then half a turn will free up just under 1.2mm of chain to flap about, and if you keep the upper run taut then the lower run can droop by about 15mm if you pull down in the middle of it

b=200mm
c=200.6mm (the original b plus half the spare chain length)
a²=c²-b²

Thanks Tester. Maybe I'll try returning it to the shop again.

Got a second hand SRAM Apex rear derailleur, first time adjusting the cable anchor bolt and it's been cross threaded the last time the bolt was put in, the bolt's threads are stripped. Got a replacement bolt and it's obvious that the threads are knackered, new bolt is starting to have it's threads stripped.

Is there a way to save it?

@tm do you want da7800 shifters?

Would love GT, but have a hard time finding one...

I mean the later group has better braking. I don't know if that's levers, cables, routing or calipers. Probably all of the above.

5600 doesn't shift like 5800. Although it might with Sil-Tec cables.

Is there a way to save it?

This is probably another job for Helicoil, although Apex might be too cheap to be worth the hassle.

When is honey organic?