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• #102977
quelle surprise.
.
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• #102978
This gon be good.
Like those old Marins -
• #102979
This gon be good.
Like those old Marins -
• #102980
Damn, my sister had a similar frame back then.
myabe this can help..
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• #102981
I would have thought 27.2, if not could be anything, 29.8, 26.8 or lower. Have you tried anything? Looks decent.
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• #102982
bosh
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• #102983
Needs Girvin Flexstem
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• #102984
Might even be 30.0mm? Marin used that through the late 90s and upto around 2005 on their alloy MTB's
I have a nice race face post in that size for sale ;) -
• #102985
Need some new spd pedals. Have to be fully shimano mountain bike cleat compatible as I have a couple of others already. For the nice commute bike so wanted to go slightly fancy, and not just the standard pdm520. Budget around £30.
I've got two in mind, the Ritchey Comp V4 - http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ritchey-comp-mtn-v4-pedal/rp-prod112206?gs=1&gclid=CPHBu6zizcYCFciWtAodQjwI6Q&gclsrc=aw.ds
Or the Boardman Pro - http://www.halfords.com/cycling/parts/pedals-pegs/boardman-mtb-pro-pedal
The boardman is light but I like the black of the Ritchey. Anyone have any experience with either?
Thanks
T -
• #102986
Stick with Shimano.
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• #102987
.
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• #102988
£30 gets you lightly used good Shimano SPD on Evilbay if you're not in a hurry.
XT or XTR if you get lucky though they usually got £35-40. XTR are indeed slightly better to clip in/out of (it's not just marketing BS I have a set) but M540 are serviceable (with a shimano tool) and can be had for £20 lightly used.
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• #102989
I would have thought 27.2
i tried a 27.2 and it was a bit too big so i'm guessing it's 26.8 but i'll have to get some calipers to make sure.
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• #102990
Looking for a second opinion on this. I've just had it returned to be by someone whose mechanic tells them it has been crashed badly and will probably need a new top and down tube, and that there is a stress fracture in the top tube (that black stuff is from where shifters were attached), and a bend in the down tube.
I've just taken these photos and I'm struggling to make out what they're talking about. Forks and front wheel are original, btw.
I do kind of see it in the last photo, but there doesn't seem to be any other evidence of a collision. The other tubes are completely straight.
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• #102991
whose mechanic
sure? or "expert mate"?
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• #102992
Doesn't look like it need replacing, unless the frame is out of alignment.
Is the fork obviously bent?
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• #102993
The geo looks fine to me on the front. A hard enough crash to fuck the tubes would have presumably taken the forks and possibly the wheel with it, I would have thought.
I'm not seeing it.
It was a mechanic at rapha.
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• #102994
Mech at rapha. I can't even see what they're taking about. No fractures that I can see, and I'd say that that 1mm out on the down tube is within acceptable tolerances. I can't feel a bulge (ooh er) or ripple.
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• #102995
Reckon it's fine, usually the fork is the first culpit when the rear is a little too close to the downtube.
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• #102996
That's what I'd look for as well. I've had crashed frames before and there's absolutely no evidence of it as far as I can make out. I'm relieved that I didn't sell a duff frame, but pissed off that I'm now £25 out of pocket for postage.
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• #102997
what's the underside of the down tube like behind the head tube/down tube lug?
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• #102998
2nd picture shows that I think.
I'll try and get it to the LBS to see who they agree with. I'm not that pissed really, I could just do with the money this month.
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• #103000
Didn't a few people recommend these as the bling (but good valve) choice?
Well there's a surprise