Any question answered...

Oh, my gear cable is frayed. I'll change it, it's easy, just like in this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-7ea5tpiM7I

Yep, so snip, pull out, no need for new outer, nice... SHIT. I have internal routing...
I needed this one!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eI_Hlw3RWf0

I now have no idea how to get the end of the cable through the tiny 3mm hole near the bottom bracket shell. I don't have a 'strong magnet' lying around either (fridge magnet doesn't cut it).

Any ideas? Yes, I know I'm an idiot.

What time do itv put up the tour highlights on watch again?

Bet it's happened between starting to read this thread and posting... Sigh.

It has - they're on now.

Ha! I checked and it hadn't by the time I posted... But I figured someone would notice and post once it had! :)))

Cheers

Not even a spoke magnet?

Not even. Just read something about using thread and a vacuum cleaner... fml...

Old bin worthy hdd you can rip open for a magnet?

Any good bicycle shop should have a very strong spoke magnet, you should order one as it's proven more useful than you think.

A bigger rotor and a suitable caliper mount adapter would be one way to get the caliper away from the spokes.

This will probably give me the most clearance from the spokes, which can only be a good thing. It also has the advantage of allowing the pads to remain about the centre of the caliper which I assume is good for the even application of force.

Is there any reason why I couldnt use a 180mm disc with a set of spyres?

Is it worth spending more on a floaty whatever or is this one sufficient?
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-slx-zee-deore-rt66-6-bolt-disc-rotor/rp-prod82436

Is there any reason why I couldnt use a 180mm disc with a set of spyres?

I don't know Spyres, but most brakes are happy with bigger rotors. You need to find something with enough radial depth to ensure that the pads are contacting brake track and not the supporting spider or, even worse, the rivets or buttons of a composite or floating rotor.

Two methods I've used with varying success:

Bent metal clothes hanger through the hole to hook the cable
Thread tied onto the cable and hoover up to the hole

Fuck me, I did it! Tried vacuum and dibbles and in the end just repeatedly jabbing it made it appear from the right hole!
At one point it came out of the front derailleur hole in the bottom bracket, and on the chain stay actually popped out of a tiny drainage hole.
Lesson learnt.

Well done! It took me 3 evenings to manage it when I did that. Like you say, lesson learnt, I'm not making that mistake again.

Does anybody know who manufactures MIC hubs?

Are they just rebranded Joytec, or another beastie altogether?

Cross post from CP, but thought I may as well try here anyway...

I want to convert a bike from having dt shifters (7 speed suntour) to thumbies. I have one of those shifter mounts for the right (which I am hoping the current dt shifter will fit on) and have ordered a cheapo friction for the left.

I have just realised that I will need some cable stops. I know there are Campag ones and Shimano ones, but what does that actually relate to? And can I just get away with using any that have a barrel adjuster? In which case is there any reason not to use the cheapest I can find?

Cheers.

They're all much of a muchness, so use whichever you prefer.

just be aware that you'll need either flat base or curved base, dependent on how the DT boss is brazed on

Another option if you're not fussed with appearance and zip tie, is a continuous cable housing from derailleur to shifter.

If you're in London I can do you some unused Freshtripe ones for a fiver?

Cheers. I will check.

@fizzy.bleach - yep. North. I'll drop you a PM.

The e-bikes rules state that the motor shouldn't be able to propel the bike at more than 15mph. Does that mean at 15mph the motor must cut out?

I ask because there's some douc... I mean chap who rides his e-bike brompton with a 200 watt motor through hyde park at 25mph + and it aint his legs doing the work.

( I asked him what the wattage was, he reckons 250w which if so is not compliant, but I suspect he's just befuddled)

On another note, why don't they rate the wattage on power to weight? a 2oow motor on a 8kg bike seems like madness.

why don't they rate the wattage on power to weight?

The weight of the bike is irrelevant once you've added a rider.

Yeah true. Was wondering whether brompton brakes - and other light and shit equipment - would hold up to the speeds that could be achieved with an extra 200 watt behind you. But I suppose that's the same as wondering if they'd put up with a 'natural descender' on a steep descent.

Was wondering whether brompton brakes - and other light and shit equipment - would hold up to the speeds that could be achieved with an extra 200 watt behind you.

On a UK legal EAPC, you don't have an extra 200W in the conventional sense. Shit brakes will be shit whatever, but normal bike equipment can withstand Wiggo's 450W even though 99% of users can't sustain over 250W :-)

I'm DJ-ing for the Brisbane messenger rollers posse next week, the venue doesn't have any decks so I'm gonna have to go laptop... Yuck!

Any Mac software recommendations? Cross DJ Free any good?