Any question answered...

^scrap that. found it. Eagle = mesh version of Dominator.

Too slow. Cheers Hovis.

I have damaged a mate's car out here in Rwanda, and am now responsible for fixing it. Can anyone give me some advice so I don't get shafted by a mechanic? I have very little idea about cars.

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Turns out (contrary to local advice) an automatic 2001 Toyota Spacio isn't cut out for the Congo Nile Trail, and it got shaken up rather badly. The radiator cooling system shat itself the following day causing us to break down - we repaired it.

Still, at low revs it shudders pretty bad (even when stationary) and it hesitates to respond when the accelerator is pressed, making overtaking difficult. There are interesting rattly sounds when accelerating.

Anyone got an idea what's up?

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/152663/

DIY, lots of info in this thread. I did a couple a few years back. Piece of piss with the right materials, tools and time.

Happy days, tx!

What's the forum recommended GPS / Nav device atm? Was thinking about replacing my Bryton 50 yesterday during the ride to Dunwich, as I'm a bit bored of it just freezing every now and then.

However now become slightly more pressing as one of the buttons (the one that cycles through the screens, obviously) has broken, I can probably fix it but might be easier to replace.

I know Garmin's aren't exactly trouble free, but they should be better than this...? 800?

You're going to have to find a friendly garage, it could be all manner of things.

It might be that an air hose has rattled loose, causing an imbalance in the fuelling and just needs clipping back in. Or it could equally be that you cooked the engine when it dropped its coolant and it now needs a new one.

Melamine on ply?

You realise that is fake wood stuck on real wood? I have never seen it and would be surprised if it exists.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=melamine+ply&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=pJ2aVcucLMWnsAHVrr0o&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAg&biw=1173&bih=889

I'm well aware of what it is, it's definitely a real thing! The melamine doesn't have to be fake wood/marble etc

http://www.constructiveandco.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG_7347.jpg

Thanks Hefty. The yellow engine/oil warning light only came on for a couple of km before it stopped, so I'd hope Toyota made an engine that checks itself before it wrecks itself.

Sigh. This could really smash me in the wallet.

the new garmin 520 looks to be the best unit in a while

I have some trp spyres and a shutter precision dynamo hubbed wheel. Every now and again the edge clips one the spokes in my wheel. The clearance between the spokes and the caliper is pretty slim at the best of times.

I know one solution is to move to hydro so I'd have slimmer calipers but £££££

If I add some spacers/washers between the disk and my hub so that my caliper can move further away will I die?

Thanks Hefty. The yellow engine/oil warning light only came on for a couple of km before it stopped, so I'd hope Toyota made an engine that checks itself before it wrecks itself.

Ideally you should have stopped when it came on and checked what it meant as there's every chance it meant 'stop now or the engine will blow up in a couple of km'.

Never mind, the Congo Nile Trail sounds way cool.

Battery life shorter than Edge 810.

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If I add some spacers/washers between the disk and my hub so that my caliper can move further away will I die?

Or put spacer on the caliper instead and adjust the pads.

Cool. I'd meant to @Skülly in the question above as I know he's an expert on all these gadgets ...

Or put spacer on the caliper instead

Would that be a negative shim? IS brakes mount on the wheel side of the fork tabs. Post mount have oval holes, but I'd imagine @root is already at the limit of that adjustment.

A bigger rotor and a suitable caliper mount adapter would be one way to get the caliper away from the spokes.

Not quite, the Spyres advantage is that both pads can be adjusted, meaning that you can space the caliper a bit further out with a washer and move the pads a little more to the right to compensate.

If I add some spacers/washers between the disk and my hub so that my caliper can move further away will I die?

No - you'll be fine, as long as you have the adjustment in the post mount to move the caliper further out.

Park Tool did the job - they reckon they are high quality, workshop grade, and the grub screw had no threadlock on it, so it span straight out. Happy days.

On to the damper...yay.

move the pads a little more to the right to compensate

I understand that, I'm just wondering how you're planning to move the caliper to the left

520 can't take a microsd card so no maps of UK as only 40mb internal . My 800 with garmin maps has never put a foot wrong (your mileage may vary )

Ah gotcha, for a moment there I genuinely forget it's on the inside not outside.

Ah, good point. 810 looks to be cheaper than the 800 now