Speedplay Pedal Thread

You can get carbon faceplates too. Lighter and garanteed to last at least a week if not ridden.

Those J&L ones are more reasonably priced, I'd only seen the German ones which were about £45

Just noticed that the Rockbros are shorter axles than J&L which means diff Q factor; also I greased the torx screw inside the pedal instead of threadlock it .. am I going to die?

And on a diff note; my other pair of speedplay zeros have a more 'secure' clip in than these (they are older and more used) will a new faceplate solve that issue?

I picked the RockBros for the short axle. I'd be tempted to threadlock that screw. Its going to see a lot of vibration.

Alright I'll re-do it :(
Any idea of torque? I went till 8nm-ish

You'll die eventually, possibly from a bike crash caused by going faster due to reducing q-factor.

I put my weight through my pedals on descents. I really wouldnt want one popping off.

I think Speedplay lists the torque somewhere. I would Guess 8nm myself. But worth a Google.

If it is indeed the faceplates that give the metal-on-metal Clip-in Speedplay talk of (they do extend Down the sides). Then it may improve Things I Guess. Seems weird you cant buy replacement steel ones if thats the case though.

Any idea of torque? I went till 8nm-ish

Sounds about right for a fixing of that size - I'd suspect the threadlock is more important than the exact torque, really.

From memory the torque was surprisingly low, it's in the service instructions pdf which was available on the speedplay site.

Deffo thread lock it

From memory the torque was surprisingly low,

3.6nm, so yeah, threadlock.

Excuse the ignorance, are these for road shoes only? I know they do mountain bike pedals but all the cleats look the same

Snap-shims, where can I get 5F/R and 6F/R?

Trying to fit some cleats to a pair of size 39 Fizik R3 and the sole us very curved, the standard shims just aren't coping.

I did a solo century ride in the Yorkshire Dales on Saturday that must nearly be a contender for the Epic Fail thread, but two Speedplay-related near misses have enabled me to look on the bright side. Due to a gung-ho route planning oversight I had to walk a section of very rough, stony track, during which one of my keep on kovers came off. The enhanced clip clop on the rocks coming from my left shoe alerted me to the fact quickly enough for me to be able to retrace my steps and recover it from the quagmire. Yesterday I found that one of my pedals was lightly seized, but I was able to flood it with new grease and the bearings (touch wood) feel ok.

Remember to grease those pedals if they’re spinning too freely y’all.

You had me at #boastpost

More of an #admittingimanidiotpost surely!

You lost me at "I had to walk a section" though. :P

DTM.

And I didn't mention the bit where I thought I was going to get attacked by an angry ram. I clearly remember thinking "I'm going to have to use my bike to defend myself, which will no doubt wreck it. Everyone I tell this to will find it hilarious, but it'll take me years to see the funny side"

Fail.

attacked = loved
angry = horny

Well I was wearing my fav jersey/bib combination...

https://youtu.be/TMYbDQnqqpA?t=15s

Just found a cheap pair of zero's to try out. So, is general consensus to go with standard cleats and keep on's/cs covers, or the walkable's? Or, not much in it, just go with cheapest option?
Gonna be for the road bike so not much walking, just thinking of preservation of cleats.

I've been using regular cleats, with proper covers for cafe stops. But done a bit of walking in them and they're holding up well.

Keep on Kovers are brilliant things, but annoyingly pricey if you lose one.

Also make you look like you have hockey pucks on the bottom of your shoes.

Regular cleats and covers are fine.

"I had to walk a section"

That's your middle name, isn't it?

#zoncolan