tubeless wheels.

Is this on the beater, not working yet but you are getting there? Keep us updated.

Dunno - tubeless One is heavier than standard clincher One, to the tune of about one inner tube. Then add sealant... as a system it may well be heavier. Although we don't carry the weight of the sealant around the rim as the wheel spins, so it's not all bad.

After sealant, tape, valves and the additional cost of tubeless specific tyres it's difficult to see when as a system it would work out cheaper than a clincher, if that's what you meant by a saving.

Still you might get less flats - I haven't flatted my Ones yet after 500 or so miles, but then again I hardly ever flat on the road anyway. <--- jinxed4lyf

I'm using some Shimano RS11's on tubeless with a couple of wraps of Stans tape and it's worked fine. One tip to help get them inflated/seated is to get the tyre on, then push the valve up inside it then pull it back down to make sure it's not blocking the bead from sitting in the rim. Then use the valve collar to pull it down as hard as you can, I use plyers to do this. I've found that when inflating for the first time most air will escape around the valve so making sure it's as tight as possible really helps.

Then use the valve collar to pull it down as hard as you can, I use plyers to do this. I've found that when inflating for the first time most air will escape around the valve so making sure it's as tight as possible really helps.

Its a good idea to eliminate the chances of air escaping around the valve / rim interface, but finger tight will mostly do it, and will mean than when you need to swap out to a tube in the field you won't need pliers - that you inevitably won't be carrying - to release the tubeless valve.

If you do the valve up plier tight, once inflated & mounted, back it off to 'can get it off with fingers tight', for an easy life should it come to an involuntary return to tubes.

I found it loosens over time so once the air is out you can undo it with your fingers, also it's easier to undo than do up.

Although it was about 6 months before I let the air out of the tyres

Hmm. I'm tempted to try it just because it's something new to try, much as anything.
Did really want gumwalls for my next tyres - anyone know if Vittoria are gonna make road tubeless?

Hmm. I'm tempted to try it just because it's something new to try, much as anything.

Heh. That's pretty much why I did it :)

Oh, and Roubaix.

I wrote one much earlier than Road.cc and it is a more complete review

http://whosatthewheel.com/2014/12/27/300-km-on-schwalbe-one-tubeless/

And more recently the IRC roadlite tubeless

http://whosatthewheel.com/2015/05/19/fleet-moss-and-a-pair-of-irc-roadlite-tubeless-tyres/

Oh sweet, thank you - will read that when I grab a coffee.

Still waiting ina reply from mario asking for prices for irc tyres. Going to try the hutchinson sector 28s soon as they are at least available.

I'm setting up some Velocity A23s tubeless. The front went up easily but the rear rim profile is causing me some problems. It's offset so the valve stem nut will not set flush so I'm losing air quickly whenever I touch the valve (and probably losing air slowly when it's left alone). Any solution?

Seems the valve collar just needed a bit more tightening - it's holding air now.

It also turns out not to be a good idea to pump a tyre up to it's rated pressure to check for leaks. 85 psi exploding in my hands: ears ringing, sealant across the flat and neighbours thinking I've shot myself.

Road tubeless?

Sounds loud and messy.

Yes it is called mile munching.

https://yacf.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=87521.msg1826101#msg1826101

85k of it.

Thankfully 33mm Racing Ralphs, so in real world usage they will never see such pressures.

Should I worry about 5 psi (15% of total preride pressure) lost during a 4 hour ride? More sealant? Did not notice any burping (I suspect I'd have lost more if this was the cause?), though I did feel the rim once or twice.

First time out?

Probably lost most of that in the first twenty minutes. If there was a good amount of sealant in them then they should be sealed up nicely now.

Give the wheel a shake? Can you hear sealant sloshing around? If not, or it's hard to hear, top em up. I do this with a syringe plugged in to the valve stem. Actually, handy hint if you do it this way - squish a section of the tyre flat before you pop the syringe in, then after you've inserted the syringe release the tyre, and the sealant will get sucked in, and you'll get no ejection / spillage (fnar) when you withdraw (fnar).

I did the prerequisite tubeless dance and they seemed to be holding air for the week before I rode on them. Cannot hear a great deal of sloshing about so I'll put in a bit more sealant.

If you store your bike indoors, prepare for tyre to randomly* pop off and shit globules of sealant all over the place at 4am

2.4" tubeless MTB tyre where the sealant, 6 month old and stored next to a radiator in bedroom, shed its load and rained down on the bed, GF was not impressed. The other tyre followed the rear about a month later.

annnd on the subject: any big difference between Stans and Caffelatex? I'm leaning towards the latter as it should do less harm to the latex tubes in my tubs (though they've currently got a small amount of Stans in them).

Any suggestions as to what width rim tape and what valve length to set up Reynolds assault slg clincher for road tubeless.

They are a bit flexy? Keep us informed how the steering goes, power transfer and durability not an issue for you.

Storing wheels in the bedroom. I'm not impressed never mind your girl friend. I'm not impressed because you must have cleaned them before taking them up. What a waste of valuable time.

I use zefal sealant. Works a treat.