Old wheel vs new wheel

Hi

So I recently bought and 8 speed Athena groupset , with Athena hubs laced to open 4cds . The rims are in good condition but the rear hub cups and cones are starting to get a bit pitted . The front is smooth but one cone I starting to go as well.

I can get new cups and cones from condor, will cost about £80 plus labour to fit (£20-40)

For this price I'm wondering whether I should just sell the 8 speed groupset (also considering parts are getting scarcer and it heavy) and buy some budget factory wheels like aksiums, fulcrums etc to go with some 9/10 speed stuff. ( I have 10 speed mechs in my parts bin just need ergos)

My only concern is those types of modern wheels don't seem to be rebuildable once the rims go , is that correct ? Seems a waste to just chuck the whole thing and if that's the case it won't be cheaper than doing up the old hubs . Can any one advise how rebuildable they are ?

3rd option is I just put new bearings in the athena hubs and ride them , just worried I'll trash them more

Mavic will supply replacement rims and spokes for a limited time only. Then you're out of luck.

I don't like Mavic's proprietary system for this reason so I won't touch them personally. I used to have a box of Mavic hubs and spokes in my shop. Binned them all in the end (boss preferred to sell new wheels understandably).

Can you not find wheels using normal J bend spokes and rims (standard 32 or 36 holes)?

I'd be inclined to rid yourself of the 8 speed. Nice as it was its such an orphan you'll run into problems with spares or upgrades.

I'd steer clear of Aksiums, I've wrecked 2 rear wheels (albeit on winter bikes) got Fulcrum Racing 7's on my Borghini winter bike, great wheels

Thanks, are the fulcrums rebuildable ?

Yep that has been on my mind, though parts still seem available for now. Although things like derailleurs will all be worn out at some point ..

What's the bike for? A retro show-pony or do you value function over form?

If the former, then it's worth repairing the hubs. Having said that, for the money you could get another wheelset (even as "spares or repairs", the wheels are worth £50), but then run the risk of being in the same situation in the near future.

If the cups and cones are already worn, then provided new bearings make them ridable, you can't make things any worse than they already are.

But as you're considering 10 speed, it sounds like it's the latter. In which case there really is no choice: the difference between the function of even a fairly low-end 10 speed group and a relatively high-end eight speed group, is marked.

If you were also to get wide-rimmed wheels (eg Fulcrum LG), then your cycling experience would be transformed.

I understand where you're coming from; I much prefer to repair and re-use, than bin worn components, but we're swimming against the tide here.

Bike is an all round day to day commuter, workhorse, sometimes distance rider, it's not going to be a hang on the wall and admire type.

Tbh the bearing surfaces aren't that bad, I've put new bearings in and although the rear feels a little rough it perfectly rideable and unnoticeable in use. However as you said, long term it'll be a lot less hassle getting spares, repairs etc with modern components. The general consensus seems to be that's the way to go. I'd hate to get stuck miles from home/abroad with no access to 8 speed replacements if anything went wrong, at least modern stuff gives you peace of mind and flexibility.

or, as 8 speed becomes scarcer (and gets reserved for show ponies), trawl the ebay ocean of cheapish 9/10sp seond hand stuff and ride it until it fails then bin. cheaper than buying new and plenty of spares availability - but you won't be able to partake in di2/disc/hydro type discussions with the shiny gear people... sandpandafacedotjaypeg

You could buy an older Veloce or lower spec Campag hub for a tenner, making sure of course the bearings and spindle is good and then just donor it across. They're mostly interchangeable at 8 speed.

I've converted an 8 speed Shamal to 10 speed using a Daytona donor hub. That's another option, not exactly straightforward, but very possible.