Power Meters / Powermeters (SRM, Powertap, Quarq, Ergomo, Vector, Stages, power2max, P2M, 4iii, InPower, Cinch)

I don't have a stick unfortunately. Going to give paligap a call today to see what they say.

On the subject of SL+ powertaps, where should I aquire new batteries for mine?

Totally inviting a 'let me google that for you' type response

They're a pretty readily available type of button cell, I'm sure a quick Bing will reveal the exact model.

Doesn't Trainerroad work like this? ie. with ANT+ stick?

< £20

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Garmin-USB-Stick-Fitness-Devices/dp/B00CM381SQ

I buy in bulk from ebay. Silver Oxide from whoever does them - usually Renata.

Bing? You funny guy.

DuckDuckGo or GTFO.

If there's not a 3 digit number when you run the Garmin "calibrate" command (you're actually zeroing the offset) then it's returning a hub ID, which will be the same every time. If the torque value moves about constantly (after zeroing the offset) rather than staying at zero, then you have a dead hub. Otherwise it's 99% likely to be fine.

To find out more information about your hub you'll need a Joule computer, either the LYC or one of the newer ones. A 3 digit number that's not close to 517 doesn't mean it's dead.

I think my vectors are beginnignt o wear out, they spin too freely, and have started to drop out sending data verspeed bumps. this is a bit upsetting (they were the right choice to buy at the time - I probably wouldn't buy them again) but ive done some pretty decent mileage in them and I guess like all things on a bike they eventually wear out.

it looks like there are two options to me at the moment (or maybe 3)
1 buy replacement pedal bodies which come with pre installed bearings
2 buy new vector 2 upgrade kit which comes with new pedal spidle and pearings (as far as I can see)
3 sell vectors to someone unsuspecting and buy a power2max/quarq.

I do like the vectors in reality, they've always been nice and consistent and I get on with the look pedals and cleats and I'm very happy setting them up properly. so option 3 isn't my favourite, but not sure if 1 or 2 alone will get me the shiny new feel I'm hoping for, so may end up doing both, which if I buy from bike 24 would be just over £200...

anyone serviced their garmins yet and have any input...?

id then have this issue of being terrified to do play about with electronic stuff with no experience of having done so...

buy replacement pedal bodies which come with pre installed bearings
2 buy new vector 2 upgrade kit which comes with new pedal spidle and pearings (as fa

How much are these two options? Seems a no-brainer to fix them unless the costs are prohibitive. You don't need to spend the whole £200 though right?

both options are about £150 or E150 so would order them from Germany at it looks like bike 24 will do free shipping...

That's still quite a bit cheaper than another meter and you'll probably lose more money if you list them honestly. I'd still be tempted to do the repair. If it goes tits up you can sell them with the upgrade kit.

Have you tried contacting Garmin to see what they recommend, or if they will replace on warranty?

Hey Xavier, thanks for this info - I've literally just had a guy from Paligap say exactly the same thing. Which is nice!

Does anyone have a Joule unit I can borrow to check the calibration? ( @Dammit ?)

I don't have one, I do have a track powertap and it calibrated fine with my Fenix 2 though.

I think yours is a g3 though right? (If its the one Damon is commuting on..)

Get the new axel. Once it's leaking grease once and the rubber seal is gone, they're done.

You can replace the grease yourself (I did many a time) but it will just keep leaking. So go for option 2. The new spindle if it's been re engineered. As the original one is totally not fit.

Yes and yes.

I wonder if the same is happening to mine. I certainly noticed play in the pedal axle when changing between bikes recently and as you say, dropouts are becoming more frequent (although still rare on average). I was hoping it would be simple to get them serviced but maybe I need new axels too.

I estimate that mine have done about 9,000miles in all weathers. I'm not sure how that compares to other PMs

Just did a bit of testing on the rollers - powertap is fine. Phew.

Just did first ride on PC8 which came bundled today. I can't seem to work out how to stop the current ride and start a new one, rather than starting a new interval on the same ride, but other than that everything is obvious, it feels solid, I like the default layouts, there's a lot on the screen at once but it's all clear to read, and it took all of five minutes to bolt on and configure. I'm surprised how good it is, and it's going to be annoying switching back to Garmin on days I need maps.

Should be holding pro and set. That's what it is on PC7.

http://www.srm.de/fileadmin/user_upload/images/powercontrol/PowerControl8/Anleitungen/PC8_QuickStartGuide_V1_1.pdf

Thanks. It was the only thing that wasn't self-explanatory.

Fixie vs Broomfield Hill; I've not seen cadence so obvious in the power readings before..

Smooth smooth smooth ATTACCCCCKKKK