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ioreka in reply to @rive_gauche
boring but hopefully insightful walkthrough:
- when i press the buzzer downstairs, my glamorous assistant tells me that the handset in the flat rings loudly and the light on the 'privacy' button lights up green. this corresponds with what the document says ("if your handset rings and the bell on the privacy button lights up green then a call has been made to your handset from the door entry panel"). yay! a marked improvement on before when no sound or lights appeared.
- the issue is why the second button ('enter') doesn't work. even when he presses it (with cover off) after i've rung the buzzer, it doesn't let me in. no lights, and no action. ergo, not a problem with the button actuators on the fascia
- the phone sounds like it is connected to something (some buzzing/feedback) but we can't hear each other so evidently not working well/properly
- the 4 stripey telephone wires are intact and not dislodged. i checked carefully to see that they are secure.
i had a good look at the pictured setup (fig. 1) though and it does differ from mine (fig. 2) in one way - the part where the earpiece of the handset rests looks like it's supposed to have some kind of spring behind the grey plastic part (just below the 3 vertical slats), to stop it just resting backwards (as it does on mine) and presumably to tell the handset whether the phone is on or off the hook.

fig. 1

fig. 2

which lead me to think that perhaps there was some kind of spring missing from behind this little grey flap (it's impossible to keep the flap up like it is in the promo pics) (no euph etc). this was the best picture i could get with my crap phone camera of what's under it:

i'm kind of tempted to just buy a new one to see what happens but i am also keen on never spending any money ever and feel like this could potentially be fixed.... if only i understood what was wrong.

at least now when there's someone at the door the buzzer does make a noise which is loads better than before (total silence and us completely oblivious) even if we have to run down and let them in manually. not so bad

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rive_gauche in reply to @ioreka
Hi lucy,

2 things:
- a pic of your spade crimping efforts for teh lolz.. and to see if there's anything readily amiss
  - the cradle switch is important. what happens when it is in depressed and released (even if manually, as you say no spring)?
this could be important as if you get a buzz request, lift the handset but the cradle switch doesn't open the pcb will always think it's closed (and no-one is picking up the phone)

also, what do the contacts look like inside of the cradle, damage, spider living inside?

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ioreka in reply to @rive_gauche

a pic of your spade crimping efforts for teh lolz

/ okaymeme.jpg

i understand why crimping needs to be good and consistent to maximise contact and conduction but i did genuinely find it quite hard to use the crimp tool for this job as the wires are so much smaller than most of the options [/excuses]

re: cradle switch, there isn't the option of depressing and releasing - it is constantly depressed as there is nothing to provide a springback. nothing changes in the procedure if it is lifted. if you look v closely in the last picture i posted (previous post) it does look like, at the top of that little grey unit with the two sets of 3 metal slats poking out underneath the cradle switch, something has been snapped off (i can try and take a better picture if it's not clear).

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