Locks that work

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  • I've got one of these http://www.amazon.co.uk/Knog-Cable-Milkman-Lock/dp/B00H45KPNQ Seems reasonable, uses keys rather than combination, may be slightly larger.

  • A coffee stop touring lock isn`t a lock that works.

  • Even if it was the best cafe stop lock, when I view the product for dispatch to the UK the website states:

    "Unfortunately, due to legal restrictions the product can’t be send to the country of destination chosen by you."

    I agree with wapiti.

  • Yes but but I walk to that shop regularly.

  • All of those pull-cable locks are equally useless against attack so it's just what is cheaper / length / your opinion on keys vs combination. I don't believe anyone can recommend one.

    An alarmed one does sound good as long as it's not going to go off with the wind.

    I use my snowboarding cable lock if I'm on longer rides with mates to lock the bikes to each other just to prevent a snatch and run if we're having a drink. You could break it, but with the cable tangled through the bikes you can't take one quickly. The bikes are always within sight, but obviously in cycling shoes you can't run after someone if they quickly grab a bike.

  • Almost any lock I could think of is better than that. That lock could be cut with garden shears.

    For coffee stops I'd suggest locking hub skewers and one strong main lock. A secondary can be used instead IF you can see the bike most of the time.

    See the Secondary Locks thread, for a list of suggested locks. I'd say that you could use the Kryptonite Mini Evolution. Or one of the (quite heavy) u-lock shaped disc locks (for motorcycles). The latter could be used for securing the seat stay and wheel to a solid object.

  • I've added a new section to the Secondary Locks thread. Its u-shaped disc locks, from 14mm to 16mm. It provides a space saving alternative to the large main locks, but can be as strong a solution as the main locks in this thread.

    Its the new section at the bottom of the first page list.

  • Am I correct in thinking these are for locking disc rear wheels to the frame via the disc?

    I know they are secondary locks, but how easy is it to cut or snip through a disc?

  • A hacksaw goes through them pretty easily.

  • snottyotter, are you sure about that?

    Two of the disc locks are 16mm. Those won't be easily broken. And, if looking at quality, of course main locks of 16mm-19mm are better. But one of the 14mm disc locks could be successfully used instead of a 14mm secondary lock. There is a definite space advantage in using a disc lock instead of a full u-lock. And since the barrels are the same thickness, the level of security is the same, if not higher.

    I'd always recommend a main lock of 16mm at least (normally), in conjunction with a secondary locks of 14mm (minimum barrel thickness).

    For ultimate space saving and protection, a Fahg and a Nemesis would be hard to beat.

  • Nice work GA2G.

    Definitely think Pragmasis should be on a par with Almax in the chain section.

  • I think the PJB 19mm thick chain is equivalent to the Almax IV. I'll try to edit that later. Some changes were made by site management to my lists, so it wasn't actually me. Sorry.

  • It was cutting of the disc rotor and then freeing the lock and therefore bike I was concerned about, not cutting the 16 mm disc lock.

    I can't envisage being able to do anything other than lock a rear wheel to the frame using the rotor.

    If there are other uses please educate me as I'd love to be carryy less lock.

  • Yeah, I meant cutting through a rotor.

  • @Cranky, u-shaped disc locks are for locking non-deep-rim wheels to the frame. Or, depending on the size of the gap, also including part of an iron fence.

    I'm not sure I understand which rotor you mean would be cut.

  • Thread does not end.

    Locking the crank via a Fagh is much better.

  • The U-shaped disc locks I've seen on motor bikes seen to prevent motion by locking the disc brake's disc. It is the disc I was referring to; sorry I probably used the wrong terminology.

    Wouldn't a bike need very, very tight clearances to use one of these locks?

  • I no.

    Was being sarcy innit.

    Unless I'm missing something I could just wheel that bike away, or if sweet fixeh lift the back wheel a bit.

    TBH I'd also fancy my chances of a pedal stomp breaking it.

  • Looks like an OnGuard Brute, but the orange colouring should be yellow, not orange. I don't know if its the photo, or a Chinese knock off.

  • Could be worse, such as if he got locked to a post like that episode of breaking bad...

  • Its the photo problem no doubt, let's get back to the U-Lock, this is OnGuard Pitbull or Brute model.Chinese knock off would not have withstood the first attack, and especially not the second method or tool.;)

    "Pete Drummond said: "We tried a cutter, but it just marked the lock. Then we tried a reinforced bar cutter, but it just dented it".

    Maybe I'm a little drunk, but this interesting case looks like "Monty Python style advertisements for OnGuard U-Lock.":D

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Locks that work

Posted by Avatar for GA2G @GA2G

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