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• #77
Cool. Keep thread updated once yer up n running, would be very interested in feedback on hub, as I would like a dynamo before winter comes, get fed up recharging my lights.
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• #78
you won't notice the hub.
Indeed.
I only notice it when I turn it on and feel the small vibration.
Plus, the huge benefit of a human powered light outweight this.
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• #79
Will do, though the mere prospect of being able to turn off the every-other-day "charge your lights" reminder on my phone is already worth the £80...
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• #80
You have a charge your lights reminder set on your phone?
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• #81
Hmmmm. Surely the red light on top is enough of a reminder, or that "oh shit! Why has it gone dark?" moment on the way home.
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• #82
@edscoble @jontea HAH! I know... :( But why would I waste what little brain space I have on something like that, when a phone can do it for me?
For the record, It's a hangover from the cheapo ebay light I had that would die when it felt like it, no matter what the indicator said. I worked out that I could roughly get 4x commutes out of a charge but beyond that was anyone's guess...
But yep, the little Lezyne thingies I'm using now (It's summerrr?) slowly loose their charge over a day or two, even when not in use...
Fuck all that noise.
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• #83
Yep - I was slightly surprised at the notchyness of the dynamo hub - interested to build it up, and see how it spins.
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• #84
It does feel like those incredibly cheap cup and cone hubs that have been tighten a little too much but that's 100% normal.
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• #85
It's especially wierd when you're playing with one that's unbuilt. I couldn't really believe that it would actually turn into something that wouldn't notice when riding - but you really don't.
Worth noting though even once you've built it, in your hand you can still feel the resistance and notchyness. So as ed says don't worry about it.
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• #86
@roadwarrior almost shat me up when he took my wheel and exclaimed "you've fucked it up" after feeling the notchyness thinking I ruined it using the part washer.
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• #87
Hah aye I thought it was completely wrecked out of the box, but remembered it being mentioned in the dynamo thread so managed not to cry any tears out of my face.
However, I could hardly turn the thing because I am so very weak.
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• #88
Righto so the lights are also here, and I finally pulled my finger out and settled on a wheel spec with my LBS, so they've got some Stans ARCH on the way, to mate up to a XT M756.
Could probably have saved a few quid ordering the hub online, but always feel like a total dick not buying stuff from the shop :/
Just pondering drivetrain now - Ribble are doing compact, black, 165mm 10sp 105 chainsets for a fairly agreeable price, so thinking of going with that coupled with a 11:34 cassette and a medium cage 105 derailleur.
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• #89
What about cx50, 46/30 with a 11/32 or 11/28 cassette.
When I got my 105 rear derailleur pretty sure it was 32t max on the mid and 28 on the short. Or get deore derailleur? -
• #90
Oh Deore could be a decent shout! Though I can only find the SGS-compatible mechs, not sure if they'll work with bar end shifters?
Here's the rear mech I was looking at. That could be a typo on the tooth count. Or I've misunderstood those specs.
Re: Crankset - I'm having real trouble finding 165mm crank arms, which I'm quite keen to have to mitigate the slight drop in BB height.
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• #91
9 speed will give you more options I think. You can chop and change between mtb and road parts easily.
Or according to @danstuff try a 9 speed decore rear mech with 10 speed road kit:
As is 6700, and while both 6600 and 6700 (and any other 10 speed Shimano road shifters) will work with a 9 speed MTB mech, as the cable pull ratios are the same, neither will work with a 10 speed MTB mech, which has a different pull ratio.
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• #92
That's the same derailleur I have, just double check the capacity on Shimano site.
Yep ,read wrong on the cx50 rings, 46/36. Could always get a 30t at a later date if you find gearing isn't upto big hills.
Do you want new cranks? If not second hand Sram Rival come up quite often. Give @Cupcakes a shout, he bought my 165mm off me, but may be going 22spd on his Rychtarski, worth an ask. -
• #93
@hugo7 @jontea Top info, thanks dudes. I might well try 9 speed out - I imagine everything will be a bit cheaper too, which always helps!
Definitely don't have to have new cranks. I would be interested in hearing more about the Red if @Cupcakes ends up not using/wanting them! They could be the sole crabonz on the whole bike!
I kinda want Force 22 to happen to the Rych regardless of an opportunistic purchase. Living vicariously through other people's builds innit.
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• #94
They're Rival, so ali, but lightish n strong.
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• #95
Hah! No idea why I decided they were RED. Rival's great.
I have them on my commuter but they're 172.5mm. I really like the way they look, so they'd be ideal in that regard.
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• #96
I'm likely to keep them as they either have a place on my rychtarski, or on my sscx pomp (as at present). But you CAN get a new set from wiggle... Not too dear. They're really nice cranks. If I stay rival on the rych I'll probably buy another set for myself.
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• #97
I wrote cannot in the message above but I meant can. 165 10-speed rival are readily available from wiggle.
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• #99
I went cx50 with a 11-34 cassette and 9sp mtb rear derailleur and bar end shifters, seems like a great combo to me and has a ridiculous range of 46x11 down to 36x34
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• #100
Cool, good to know! I might start out with 50/34, and then I can always drop that outer ring down a bit if I feel a bit undergeared.
Oh aye! Doesn't feel bad heavy, but reassuringly heavy! Feels well made :)