Any question answered...

Actually, best to just throw the fork away and start again, the fork ends are fitted the wrong way around, the alignment is about the worst it could possibly be if you want to avoid wheel ejection under braking.

Oof. Design oversight or what?

Good job there's some beefy lawyers lips on there.

TBF it still work okay, you just need to do up the quick release real tight (or use Shimano skewer).

you just need to do up the quick release real tight (or use Shimano skewer)

He's using a bolt-on hub, albeit with titchy screws. In general, yes, use a Shimano skewer, but don't try to fix the problem by over-tightening - that suggestion indicates that you don't understand the issue and need to go back and reread all of Jobst Brandt's posts on rec.bicycles.tech

Whether you're using tiny screws or a QR skewer on a disc-braked front wheel, the second best* thing you can do is to check the wheel retention system before every ride. A good skewer or small screws should hold the wheel as long as they stay tight, but the brake loads which are trying to eject the wheel also cause the skewer or screws to loosen over time.

*obviously the best thing to do is to throw the fork away and get a through-axle model.

Friend has new bike (cube 2014 29er), he fitted the pedals by hand... Doing laps of richmond park, pedal comes out of crank. I have a 15mm spanner so manage to undo pedal, taking some shards of metal from the threads and then put the pedals back on again.

He mashes, but it had about 20 miles so seems odd that it should happen?

I don't think it's possible to miss thread a pedal by hand, is it warranty issue, any idea how it happened?

He gone fucked it up, not you.

Fitting it by hand mean he managed to unwind it while pedalling and cause damage to the thread when it come off by force.

Time for a new crank arm, and actually use a spanner next time.

How can you unwind a pedal by pedalling (forward)?

dunno - but I managed some time ago

He was wondering if it could be caused by not tightening enough, but like @Scilly.Suffolk I thought pedalling tightened rather than loosening... £60 mistake... Not that bad really... I'll help fit it... I'm due that will stop any further mistakes ;-/

Anyone think the pedals need replacing too?

In fact do you think now it's been tightened properly it might survive? (Did another 20 miles without issue)

Anyone think the pedals need replacing too?

They usually don't need to as they're typically made from steel whether crank arm are your delicious shade of aluminium.

clean and inspect the thread if you're concern, but I put my money on that the thread is fine.

How can you unwind a pedal by pedalling (forward)?

You don't, but it's possible to come off if not tightened properly.

Precession
Mechanics. the motion of the rotation axis of a rigid body, as a spinning top, when a disturbing torque is applied while the body is rotating such that the rotation axis describes a cone, with the vertical through the vertex of the body as axis of the cone, and the motion of the rotating body is perpendicular to the direction of the torque.

In layman's term; pedal go wobbly wobbly then says goodbye to thready.

As above

Precession

But we use left-hand threads on left-foot pedals so that the precession tends to tighten them

Unless it's so loose and the pedal-action so agricultural that as he's mashing he's pushing the pedal away from the crank.

Calling cobblers!

So I have an issue, a while ago in my car the clutch master cylinder seals ruptured and ended up dripping brake fluid on my tan leather work (dress-type) shoes. It' gone and bleached the dye underneath the base coat and left a pale brown stain. Any clues on how to mask it? Cobbler says as it's penetrated through the leather, what they have to do is strip the base coat off the toe cap down to the leather, re-dye the entire thing and then re-coat it.

Would scuffing the pale area carefully myself with some sandpaper, and then applying a dark tan polish back up to the base coat help? Or should I just use the dark tan polish and try mask it as best I can?

1 Attachment

Is there anyway to add mudguard eyelets to a carbon fork:-

I want to mount standard mudguards, but the Planet X London Road bike fork only has rack mounts.

Ideally, I'm wondering if there is something you can mount off the fork's jaws that take the wheel axle.

Mount the guards on those there eyelets to clear the disc caliper. Ive seen it done on here..

You could get an eyelet bonded onto the fork leg.

@Dammit had some, but his were very custom.

https://www.lfgss.com/comments/12045470/
https://www.lfgss.com/comments/12046613/
And yes, Dammit had eyelets glued on. For a time.
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/223068/?offset=3225
I think there was a solution involving other people and other adhesives?

https://www.lfgss.com/comments/12045470/­

Thanks a lot. Just the sort of thing.

what width rim tape do I need for Kinlin XC279 rims?
22 or 18mm?

18mm

Is there a thread for reliable sellers?