Current Projects chat and miscellany

You would do that with a standard fork, but not on this

I still don't get why you would leave the fork in the frame while cutting. There's nothing about the Look design which prevents your removing the fork and holding the steerer properly while cutting, then you can clean up all the dust in a completely different room from where the headset bearings are stored before bringing the (now clean) fork back into the clean room for final assembly.

flat file that shit its not structural

I read that in Denzel's voice...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=59RSLhdGWQM

Nothing that prevent it to take it apart if you really want to do it, but not necessary so why do it?
Once I get home I'll scan the instruction book that comes with the frame kit.
They even say that you could just use their steel cylinder as cutting guide, but I used a clamping guide for obvious reasons.

Do you de-lace your wheel if you need to replace your hub bearings? :)

You even left the bloody wheels on

but not necessary so why do it?

For the reason you yourself identified - cutting produces a load of horrible carbon dust, which you want to keep away from the rest of the bike. That's much easier with the fork separated from the bike. Also, it's much easier to hold the steerer to make a clean cut if you're just holding 300g of fork by the steerer about 20mm from the saw blade, rather than trying to hold 2kg of bike by a grip that has to transfer the cutting load through the frame and headset. Ask any machinist - sound fixtureing is as important as anything else to a good outcome.

Ask any machinist - sound fixtureing is as important as anything else to a good outcome.

Yes please! Photo shoot when it's done?

Ha! Yes wheels were a bit too much I must admit.

I still want to ensure everybody that the carbon dust has been collected underneath on a rag.
No bearings have been harmed during the process.

:)

@mdcc_tester pretty sloppy instructions from the manufacturer then:

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pretty sloppy instructions from the manufacturer

Yes. I can see why they've suggested that method, since it makes it all but impossible to cut too much off the steerer by accident, but it's still wrong from an engineering viewpoint.

I would do that on a standard fork anyway to ensure it's properly cut.

Doing it that way may likely to cause splinter on the steerer.

Doing it how? Without cutting guide? What will cause splinters? I'm seriously getting confused now as I'm pretty sure nothing went wrong.

i hope you didn't have any electrical items around when you cut the steerer?

Or magnets

Or onions.

.

Before I cut the steerer I checked the Thames waters level and it was indeed very low.
Will it make it regrow faster or slower?

depends on the ice caps too...

My comment was actually serious. Carbon dust is conductive and can fuck up electrical shit

Carbon dust is conductive and can fuck up electrical shit

Trufax:
http://fas.org/man/dod-101/sys/dumb/blu-114.htm

Mother of god

I sanded it down a bit, doesn't rub anymore but still a bit toighter than i'd like. Gonna roll with this now and change to smaller tyres if it starts to annoy me too much.

Also got a new, longer stem installed. Next up is pedals, setback post and new bars, then it'll do.

Band adapter looks pretty bulky, you may find more clearance with a different one.

Last 2 pages. Breso vs Tester. Scanned manual checkmate. Would read again etc.

Anyone got any tips on setting up Shimano 5800, 6800, 9000 front mechs?

I cannot for the life of me get four useful positions. It needs absolutely mental cable tension at which point my inline adjuster would rather spin than adjust.

:(