Cold set frame or spacers?

not much to them, I made one using discs cut from bulletproof perspex, unnecessary but I had some and thought it would be tough but wouldn't damage any shiny bits while pressing.

I know I'm dragging up an old thread here but I've used the search and this seems the best one.

I have 2 frames where I want to increase the rear dropout spacing. Both are steel.

1st one is a very old (40's/50's) track frame I want to respace from 110 to 120.

2nd is a 531 geared road frame I want to respace from 120 to 130.

In all honesty I think I will just htfu and do it by bending them but has anyone done this the sheldon way with any success? Worried about the 1st one cracking (the old frame) and the powdercoat on the 2nd flaking. Did anyone do it by the threaded rod method - I can just see it springing back unless left to set for a long time?

EDIT: by bending I mean what fred suggested. Stand on the frame and bend the fucker.

someone did the Sheldon method and said it was easy and worked well - search for it

bending it sounds shit and I have no idea how you'll ensure you get it even.

don't worry about the paint.

Mmmm - well the sheldon method (cold set) is basically bending it with a bit of wood. Hugo - you have a link to this other thread? I can't find it.

I did the Sheldon method to respace from 126 to 120. Worked well. No visible impact on my new powdercoat (I did put a rag between the wood and the frame to protect the paint from the wood while I did the bending).

Read Sheldon's description carefully before doing the bending - explains how to get it even.

I know I'm dragging up an old thread here but I've used the search and this seems the best one.

I have 2 frames where I want to increase the rear dropout spacing. Both are steel.

1st one is a very old (40's/50's) track frame I want to respace from 110 to 120.

Goodhead -- did you get anywhere with respacing the old track frame for 120mm?

I have same issue with 1950s frame - I guess it affects the chainline somehow?

by the way I found that older 126 road ends can easily be sprung for new 130mm hubs - giving 20 speeds with downtube shifters.

Dredge.

I am thinking of sticking a 130 geared hub in my charge plug (to allow for lower GI for polo and normal riding about). The charge is normal track spacing 120mm. Sheldon says that going up one size requires cold setting. HOWEVER?

Is it worth it? I cut a block of wood to 130 and squeezed it in the drop outs fairly easily. The frame seems pretty springy in the rear triangle.

If the cold set answer is 'yes' then I think I will make the threaded rod. Looks much more precise than whacking wood in there and jumping on it.

Thoughts?

cold set, but not how Sheldon advice, there is abetter method.
you will need a "thing" that I don't know how is call, but describe, basically is a bar with threads all the way, like a big screw. A couple of nut and a spanner.

put the big screw in the drops and one nut in the outside of the drops then turn the same number of turn each nut.
meausure the space. you need to go way more than the 120mm
stop and measure again, repeat
repeat until you are spot on.

this method can be use to open the frame, just put the nut in the inside of the drops

I don't know if I had explain myself clear, so any question welcome

huh?!

errm rich, from what I can gather, with heavy guage tubesets like Tange Chromo, plain or db 531, 525, 520, 501 that sort of thing, springing the frame to accept your hub is fine. Not recommended is doing it fine with thinner gauge high-end tubesets. Or alu or ti, presumably. Fine with carbon though ;)

I am currently using the thread, nuts and spacers method. I've stretched my 126 out to 140 and am hoping once I release it, it will spring out to about 130 somewhere. I've used digital measurer and it didn't make any funny noises. I have no idea if leaving it for a couple of days will make that much difference?

The problem with that method (apart from the inaccuracy) is that you are bracing one pair of stays bike against the other.

Differences in materials and construction, mean that one pair will be stronger/stiffer/more rigid than the other.

The result being that one side of the frame will move further than the other and your bike will be lop-sided.

If you must spread the ends (it's only 2mm either side and not necessary), then follow Sheldon's method.

yes I'm thinking you are right, it didn't seem to spring it at all