The Tester Approves thread (see first post)

I've been tubeless on the MTB for over a decade, but never on the road. If anybody starts making decent tubeless wheels for the road, I could be tempted.

Well my wheels are tubeless and good - Pacenti SL23s. Changing tubes on them is a massive bugger - about 50% of the time I pinch the new tube. So it's just a case of getting the GP4000 performance/p*ncture resistance with a tubeless tire (guess who p*nctured on his training ride last night)

I am using Schwalbe One's tubeless tyre.

Now that I have gone to the pacenti tubeless rim tape they are working wonderfully.

Really comfy, grippy and fast tyre.

Front has taken one 3mm cut, but it was a shard of flint that would have damaged any tyre. It did not penetrate, but I should glue it back up.

So not tester approved, but endorsed by me.

First post still awaiting approved Chainsets and Frames and Forks.

Cool, that sounds promising. I've heard good things about the One, and someone on here whose name I've forgotten also recommended the IRC Roadlites.
How would you go about glueing that cut, btw? Any attempt I've made has failed.

£99? Feh, I made my own:

Took bloody hours, never again...

my wheels are tubeless and good - Pacenti SL23

As this is the 'Tester Approves' thread, I feel duty bound to point out that I don't regard anything with spoke holes in the tyre bed to be tubeless and good. Ksyriums, Campag/Fulcrum 2-way and Shimano TL wheels are proper tubeless, but they're all too skinny and, in the case of Ksyriums and Shamals, a bit shit. Give it another year or two and all three big wheel manufactures should have 23mm wide true tubeless wheels, they are all moving in the right direction but a bit slowly.

... I feel duty bound ...

y u no smackdown?

#uchngd

Seem to remember this being discussed but unsure if Tester weighed in... is there a any argument to use Torx bolts over hex or the other way around?

is there a any argument to use Torx bolts over hex or the other way around?

Torx is superior, always use them in preference to hex if you can. The driving interface is larger and much closer to orthogonal to the driving force, so the pressure is dramatically reduced, making 'rounding out' much less likely.

Excellent, thanks!

Tester selected truing stand of choice?

Requires a multi-tool not designed by interns, though. Got to the Alps before remembering I needed a torx I didn't have to re-tighten my ritchy stem bolts. BAH.

Tester selected truing stand of choice?

I use the Minoura one, mine is pretty ancient but the current model is much the same. It's fine for doing a couple of sets a year as I do, if you're going into business as a wheelbuilder you might want to select something a bit more tarty.

Can anyone recommend some cycling water bottles / bidons?

Camelbak Podium

*TesterApproved™*

What's the best crankset / bottom bracket combo to give 47.5 mm chainline for singlespeed CX/gravel/commuter?

What's the best

That's not necessarily the point of this thread, mostly because there is no general agreement about what constitutes best. Try narrowing your criteria and then ask in another more relevant thread.

Oki doke, does what's the best in you opinion cut it? I've searched the web and agree there's no general agreement and worse there's little evidence of the pedigree of the advice on forum's a google search directs you too. I thought I'd ask here as your advice is well respected.

1. What sort of chainring do you want to use?
   
2. What sort of BB shell? BSA-68mm, BSA-73mm, BB30, some kind of creaktastic pressfit size?
   
   

The rest is a matter of taste.

Your criteria are underdefined.

44T single chain ring - 1/8" as I'm going to run White Industry freewheel.
It's 68 mm BSA shell and I think square taper will give me best option for getting good chainline. Less than £200 for both would be ideal. Any pointers greatly appreciated

WI freewheels run quite wide from the base of the thread, have you measured that chainline?

47.5mm is easy to achieve with MTB chainsets, but 44T is a pretty big ring for SSCX considering most would aim to use no larger than 2:1.

34:18 drops you down to the cheaper WI freewheels and lets you use 4-arm 104mm mtb chainrings. 47.5mm is a normal mtb chainline and Goldtec make 1/8th SS 'rings, £18ish.

WI freewheels are 3/32 btw...

I think CX/gravel/commuting is the "rad" way to justify a sensible gear rather than mashing your way into HHSB... 44x18 is about 66gi right? Good around town, fine for towpath/gravel tracks etc.

For £200 you can get matching WI eno cranks. They're very shiny and popular on Instagram.

Semi-seriously though... they are nice to look at, match your freewheel, square taper for easy chainline and they have a low q-factor which seems to mean something to some people.

Edit: re-reading I'm not sure if the 200 needs to cover the freewheel :/

No freewheel already purchased. I'm not keen on the eno cranks, I'd like to be able to change chain rings easily.

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