Any question answered...

Nail varnish remover if it's just printed on

Just put some new pads into a HY/RD - "BRM416 Resin", and there is literally no friction between them and the rotor - maximum clamping force and you can easily rotate the wheel, with the pads clamping onto the rotor.

What do I do?

I'll give this a go. Ta

White hubs/spokes - can this be removed with oven cleaner/caustic soda?

OnOne Fleegle/FleeglePro, and an extra spacer under the stem?

PX had them at £10 last week.

Interesting, was ideally looking for something like that but with 50mm rise. It's going in a quill but the frame is a bit smaller than ideal so was already accounting for quill being extended. Will have a think.

My first guess would be bends in the cable, last run to the rb is very common to be too sharp a bend. And first run to gears would also suggest it's not gunk, or wouldn't you get the gunk either both in the end runs or start runs not one of each? Obviously bullshit Internet diagnosis by someone that doesn't really know that much, just loud mouthed and contrary... But something doesn't add up...

@Howard, I've always heard the arguements for using cable stops is because the frame is more compression resistant than cable (at least old cable, not so certain about compressionless) and also less friction with air than outer! Rather than weight. But you are Defo right more cuts gives more opportunity for bad cuts/wrong length outers... Worth considering. Cheers for answering all my questions.

Jeans, where do you guys get them??

As a short guy who cycles quite a lot whos also recently lost a fair whack of weight i seem to be screwed, went to the entirely of oxford street with no luck.

I like 'skinny' jeans, not skin tight, but not 'slim' cut. 30" waist is spacious and 30" as long as I can go. I seem to have to go to 34" skinny jeans to get my thighs/calves in or 30" slim jeans that look like bootcuts around the ankles

Rapha.

Actually ignore me I know nothing about jeans

skinny swrve work for me as a 30 inch waisted shorty

I go to TK Maxx, as I am a Man Of Fashion.

Keep riding it and drag the brakes if you haven't done that already.

I went down the hill upon which I live three (3) times with the brake held full on. Nothing.

I seem to have to go to 34" skinny jeans to get my thighs/calves in

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1NUVlOHo0M

Could you have contaminated the pads somehow?

Alternatively sounds like glazed pads, which can be caused by major overheating. Try filing the pad surfaces and trying again with a few sharp stops from speed, no dragging down big hills.

How worn out was the old pads actually?

Tried two sets of pads. First set were fresh out of the packet, after the test ride OF DEATH I cleaned the rotor with acetone and sanded the new pads. Still the same. Then I swapped to older pads that had worked previously, still the same. I think the caliper is banjaxed.

Have you got the setting pin thingy released?

Too much cable tension not allowing the arm on the caliper to go fully back? It stops the reservoir pulling in more fluid to auto adjust for pad wear and makes them seem dead weak.

this.

Ensuring that there is enough cable slack present so that the arm goes all the way back, and then pumping the brake lever has increased the clamping force - but it's still possible to clamp the brake full on and then rotate the wheel by hand.

Next suggestion?

Bleeding probably.

Probably bleeding fucked.

Fixed frame, with clearance for 28c with mudguards. Either discs or caliper, not too fussed. Rack mounts probably a plus. What is there? Besides a Pompino.

Cotic Roadrat?

Edit, scrub that, they don't do the drop bar version with the shorter TT any more.