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• #68552
Is there a tester approved chain whip? What's a good one for not loads of money?
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• #68553
Is there a tester approved chain whip?
Park SR2, can't help with cheap as the best price is £29.99, plus you have to change the chain (which is easy as it's bolted together, not riveted) to use it with ⅛" sprockets, but the long and comfortable handle is worth the price compared with cheap ones stamped from sheet.
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• #68554
Cheers!
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• #68555
Electric cars. Wait come back.
Does anyone know so!e where that does the cost breakdown per year? -
• #68556
You can get one that isn't stamped for much cheaper than the parks one... Buggered if I can find a link for it, but I've got a combined chainwip/lockring tool, that's plenty beefy and cost me about £15. Get two and have one 1/8th and the other 3/32 for the same price as the parks one.
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• #68558
My road build continues.
I have bought a set of shimano 600 sti shifters that came with the groupset, the right shifter is very notchy and it requires a fair amount of effort to push to the left , passing a kind of "catch".
Is there any remedy fix for this notchy right sti?
many thanks once again -
• #68559
Douse liberally in GT85, if that doesn't work smash with hammer, applies to all other repair jobs too.
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• #68560
B'Twin 500 chain tool. Makes all chain whips redundant (for cassettes with a smallest sprocket between 11 and 14 teeth). Not necessarily tester approved but bloody good.
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• #68561
will give that a try. Just weird how the other one is perfectly smooth but the right gets "stuck"
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• #68562
Not much good for most track sprockets though.
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• #68563
True. Good for cassettes, not for 15+ tooth sprockets.
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• #68564
B'Twin 500 chain tool.
Why would you want to hold your cassette by 3 teeth on the smallest sprocket when a chain whip can hold all the teeth on the biggest sprocket? Torque is the same (whatever is needed to loosen the lock ring), so holding on the larger radius reduces the tangential force, and spreads it over more teeth.
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• #68565
Er, because even with my mighty mighty arms I'm not going to be able to rip teeth off a cassette with a foot long tool, so the number of teeth the tool attaches to is essentially irrelevant.
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• #68566
Less likely to slip innit.
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• #68567
After digging through my tools, it's a shimano:
http://www.rakuten.co.uk/shop/taylorwheels/product/16161909/?sku=16161909&sclid=a_pla_uk&$$ja=cgid:20170741716%7Ctsid:71873%7Ccid:271496316%7Clid:41477300408%7Cnw:g%7Ccrid:62637775116%7Crnd:16609606290572991152%7Cdvc:m%7Cadp:1o3%7Cbku:1That's the 21, I've got the TL-SR. 22 which is the 1/8th version... There's also a 23 which from a bit of googling has added magnets to hold the chain in place when using the lockring tool.
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• #68568
Velosolo one looks nicer and cheaper, TL-SR21/22/23 is even more expensive than the Park one.
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• #68569
I don't like the join on the velocio one, I've used the shimano one as a hammer when i've not had one to hand... Rock solid.
And only a couple of quid difference if you search about.
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• #68570
I don't like the join on the velocio one
There's a join in the Park one too, it's just hidden under the coating on the handle; we've been trusting our lives to spot welds on cars for a long time now, I think I can live with a couple on a wrench.
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• #68571
By the same logic we've been trusting our lives to things stamped out of sheet metal, so might as well get a £5 one? ;)
Meh, i remember when "tester approved" meant something! You're slipping man.
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• #68572
By the same logic we've been trusting our lives to things stamped out of sheet metal
That's not the same logic. Stamping is a sound process, spot welding is a sound process, seam-welding tube is a sound process. It's only by combining all of the processes in one sound design that we arrive at a tester approved chain whip. You could build the Park shape in a seamless way and if it had the same ergonomics it would still get my approval, it would just be even more expensive. I can think of at least half a dozen ways to make a chain whip with the same ergonomics and functionality, so the best solution will be the cheapest and I think Park have probably got pretty close to it.
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• #68573
Where can I get okish 130bcd track rings for less than £30 to replace the OE one on my Fuji Feather? Or might I be better off buying a complete chainset?
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• #68574
Is there a better option than the bodge job I've constructed using cable ties here?
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