Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

I have been looking at them all way too much recently and shimanos cup way looks best imo. Also spending ages flicking the syringe before you start so the air goes out of the fluid and the hose as you do it so it can go up and out. Lastly pumping the brake constantly to do some sort of "burping" so the air bubbles come out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DsqlEYJeLQU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nypZiLC1_Z8

That video is exactly what I do (top one).

I presume you're talking about Avids?

I was going to tell you how and why I bleed lever down but I've just remembered (it's been a while since I went near Avids) that that's impossible due to Avid's lack of bleed nipple so I can see why you'd go that way.

@edscoble are you talking about the yellow Shimano cup or the reservoir being half full?

@alasdairw I can't imagine getting all the air out within one reservoir's worth of fluid so going that way with Shimanos where you can attach the yellow cup might be clean enough but on anything else it's gonna be hella messy.

2nd video,
7seconds in I'm thinking that hose looks a bit knackered where it enters the lever.
24seconds in, oh right that'll be why!

How cloudy is his fluid too?! I would say it's long overdue for complete flush through with fresh fluid but, it's an Avid so bin and buy Shimanos would really be the answer.

That video is exactly what I do (top one).

I guess that'll work ok with a new(ish) Shimano brake where there's the attachment point for the cup but what do you do when you can't attach the cup?

Shimano cups.

Always depend on the brakes naturally.

Ahh... I get the same shing shing shing noise and have 9mm quick release... Another MTB mystery solved!

If you want to sell on a bb7, I'd be up for one... Or a link to where you can get a pair for 40?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271859421073?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

From Taiwan but probably get to quicker than most online sellers in the UK would manage anyway.

Shinging noise can come about when there is play in the wheel bearings too, check your cup and cones if you've got them, it's more likely that than the play in a 9mm QR or some light weight forks flexing under your incredibly immense power.

Double check the alignment of the caliber by putting a sheet of white paper below it (for ease of seeing ) and lining it up carefully by eye, not by pulling the brakes and tightening the bolts, that's internet guff and works about as well as my pants.

Ban this sick filth

the play in a 9mm QR or some light weight forks flexing under your incredibly immense weight

Yup that's what it is for me.

Cheers for the link mechV, I think if my informant is correct, they are from the avid factory and they are seconds... Could be as little as paint defects, but considering the number of complaints in this thread about them sometimes being shit...

Still going to get a pair though.

(Is that right @coventry_eagle?)

under tensioned spokes

The spokes don't support the disc though.

Ah, explains why they are pretty much half price.

There's no mention of faults in the listing so I guess a good check over when they arrive and claim money back through PayPal if they are diff. Given they are coming from the other side of the world, might not even have to return them.

Getting a full set of bb5s and levers off a workmates for £20 so gonna see how one of them works on the front.

So the back disc caliper I think the frames mounting bits are bent somehow. Is that something that can be fixed?

Bend rotor can be tried, and the ding ding shing can simply be the caliper too close to the rotor, ding.

I've ordered a pair and many other polo players have too with no issues from use.

I don't think it's seconds or rejects. Think about taxes, it's made in Taiwan so that's a good chunk off the retail price here not to mention retailer's profit.

I've got some road bb5,s and they are pretty crappy, better than v brakes, but not by much, and require far too much adjusting.

Cheers for the comments Ben, I thought it was you that said they were seconds...

I haven't made up my mind about them anyway... Might get slx hydro and move the bb7 I've already got onto the bike I was considering getting new bb7s for...

Em yeah I think I got a bit over excited about the bb5s because of the price and once I realised they take different pads etc I've passed on them - I thought they were a bb7 just without the dial on the outboard pad.

Anyway, I've a new plan as just after I passed on the bb5s, my other workmate came in and sold me a full M585 dual control setup (sti levers, hoses, calipers and new pads) for £10!

Levers have been ditched on ebay and with any luck will make me back maybe half of the purchase price and I'm going to use one of the calipers with the rear M755 lever that I have spare since I pinched the caliper off it to put on the front of my bike to replace the leaky original caliper.

Not sure how a lever designed for a 4 pot is going to work with a wee 2 pot caliper, and I need an M8 goodridge connector to find out but same workmate thinks he has one at home and we are on same shift tomorrow so will find out then!

Hopefully works ok and I can have matched M755 levers, nice big M755 4pot on the front and the smaller M585 2 pot on the rear.

I would say it will be akin to long pull lever on a road caliper, you'll lose modulation, good bite though.

I've seen the reverse 4 pot lever with a splitter to front and rear which works fine.

I've got a CdF frame and a set of TRP Spyres coming. The jagwire road pro xl cable set is out of stock. Any other options? I can't seem to find anything which will be long enough to run a full outer.

Planet X London Road bike comes with Avid BB7 mechanical brakes or for £200 more Sram Rival 22 hydraulics.

Are the hydros worth the extra?

£200 is a lot of beer
just saying

£200 is a lot of beer

That's what I thought - well, what I thought after I initially thought "Mmmm, better spec, must be better."