You are reading a single comment by @dave4 and its replies.
Click here to read the full conversation.
London Fixed Gear and Single-Speed is a community of predominantly fixed gear and single-speed cyclists in and around London, UK.
This site is supported almost exclusively by donations. Please consider donating a small amount regularly.
dave4
Muppetteer
Sadly the chainset is scrap, really - square taper cracks are rare but they can happen and the chainset's not been made, even, since 2006/7 season so I guess you have had a good run with it - all good things come to an end!
UltraTorque is no more, no less "reliable" than square taper.
The bearings need to be looked after (this is a product designed fundamentally for racing, of course) but provided the frame is to spec before you start the install, it'll go in easily.
As ever, check it, don't guess. BB shell width 68 +/- 0.8 mm (as it's a Condor I assume it'll be BSC)
If the frame is Ti and from a reputable builder, as it appears to be, not painted, it shouldn't need facing. hopefully that will have been done by the builder, originally. Chasing the threads through would be a plan, for sure - it'll clean the threads for the UT cups and make for an easier fit.
In a Ti thread, chasing won't remove and material much so blunting the cutters is not a reason not to do it - a lot of shops don't use the right cutter lube, though, for Ti, so they get galling, which can wreak havoc - again, make sure that whoever does it, knows what they are doing.
Current factory advice is actually to torque the cups in - the Loctite 222 method that is mentioned above is OK, we have used it in the past as it was a recommendation at one time - but it does rely on the Loctite curing correctly and if you do get a weak bond and a cup does work loose, it can do damage to the threads, even in a Ti frame, so with my "avoid liability" hat on, I'd say follow the installation instructions in the current technical manual available at:
http://www.campagnolo.com/media/files/035_40_Technical%20manual%20-%20Ultra%20Torque%20Power%20Torque%20bottom%20bracket%20cup%20-%20Campagnolo__Rev01_02_15.pdf
Be careful about the torque on the king bolt in the centre - don't use a ball-end allen key, use a square end and do torque it correctly - it is possible to overtighten the bolt (seen it - hideous mess) and also to not do it up tight enough (also seen, more often, also a hideous mess) although the recommended torque range is reasonably wide - 42-60nm - all the same, I'd not advise guessing, it's an expensive mistake if you get it wrong.
If you need shims on the taper, something has gone wrong, somewhere - I don't know how many 1000 installations I have done in the last 35 years but I've never had to shim a square taper!
When you fit the pedals, don't forget to use a suitable barrier against galvanic corrosion - grease, copperslip, assembly compound. Torque - Campagnolo advice is 40 nm.