Home DIY

The faux- chimney just lifts away

I still say you would have had more fun with a cable saw.

The joys of buying second hand!

Does it need to be held on with screws?

^this

and the hood's too high for efficient extraction/filtration

and

the reason my flat renovation has taken so long is that we've been living here at the same time.

bullshit, it's cos you've been faffing around with cars and bikes!!!!!!111

If the hood is lower then I can't see the stove top!

Dig a pit infront of the cooker.

If the hood is lower then I can't see the stove top!

you don't need to, that's what the wife is for...

peurile sexist shit thread

Does anyone know any good tiling courses around South london? Thinking a 2 day to a week course
We've some work needing in our bathroom but thought it might be better to learn how to do it rather than bodge it or get someone in. (or bodge it AND get someone in)

@PQR I would have thought by the time you had paid for a course plus tools and materials to do the job it would be cheaper to pay a professional. However if you are determined to Destroy It Yourself pm me

I'm thinking its always a good long term skill to have. Probably better do a course than teach youtself from youtube! PM coming

Done, or rather I chased down from the spur-socket to below the worktop, then the cable goes behind the unit and up into the boiler.

So over the weekend I used some of these to put up a shelf using a few of these.

First question is, are those man enough plasterboard fittings? I know they aren't going to hold masses of weight but it's only a small shelf in the loo for some magazines/toilet humour.
Second question is, will those fittings be strong enough to hold up a pair of large (and eventually heavily laden) book shelves made using these? Each rail has three holes for attaching and the two 1.5m shelves are getting three rails between them, so 9 fittings in total.

Haven't dealt with plasterboard before so not so sure about any of this stuff.

case a - yes, adequate

case b - inadequate, try and find where the timber studs are and whack 2.5" x 12 posidriv screws into those through the pboard

I need to cut small rectangle holes into some wood casement window for the handle clasps to slot into. Needs to be quite precise, what tool should I use?

Cheers, thought as much.
Googling says magnets are the answer to finding studs, any other suggestions?
Was going to knock about a bit to keep my mysterious magnet waving to a minimum...

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Schneider-3-in-1-Detector-(Ac-Cable-Metal-Stud)/p/119805

(available cheaper elsewhere, but seeing as you linked to wickes)

Feint saw?

What is the bit you are having an issue with?

Tiling is easy, it is all in the preparation, such as making sure everything is level and straight then planning the tile sizes.

http://www.electricalsafetyfirst.org.uk/find-an-electrician/part-p/

I need to cut small rectangle holes into some wood casement window for the handle clasps to slot into. Needs to be quite precise, what tool should I use?

One of these oscillating multitools? You can get some pretty fine blades for plunge cuts at least down to 3/8".

Alternatively, go old-school and do it like a door latch. Drill out the centre and use a very sharp chisel to cut the corners.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/the-corner-chisel

other makes available

even better, requires a pillar drill though.

a detector will only find metal, such as p/board nails or screws, or expamet lath, cables, conduit, pipes - it won't find wooden studding!

tapping and listening to the change in tone is a good indicator for finding the vertical stud work, allied with detecting a line of metal dots from screw/nail at panel fixing points to the studding.

a detector will only find metal, such as p/board nails or screws, or expamet lath, cables, conduit, pipes - it won't find wooden studding!

Ummmmm... yes it will. Type "stud detector" or "stud finder" into google and you'll get more results than you can handle. I've used my detector to find wooden studs through plasterboard on many occasions. Most have 2 settings: one for wooden studs and one for metal, so you can even find the stud and then find the screws that are holding the plasterboard to it.

Surely stud finder only works if they have used studwork? could also be dot and dab to brick\block wall ,in that case long screws and standard rawl plugs into the wall?