Locks that work

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  • I did. My confusion was because there was no mention of the Abus 401 - all made sense once I stumbled across the Secondary Locks thread! I assumed the Abus was beefy enough to be a primary but I guess not - the Fahg Mini is a lot more substantial. I'm going to pick one up and pair them. :)

    Is a Kryptonite cable worth adding to extend reach, though (for locking to really fat poles that neither U-lock will go around, for example) or are they total junk?

  • Total junk. You can cut through them with some snips. You don't want to be using d-locks as a padlock and relying on a thin cable to stop someone wandering off with your bike.

  • What are the best options for locking to a fat pole then? A monster U-lock? A 16mm chain? Just move the bike elsewhere...?

    I was looking at the biggest of the Hiploks but they don't appear all that strong (SS Gold be damned). :/

  • @jadias move the bike, I find in london you are never more than 2min walk from a suitable rack. If you are only locked to something by a cable they can cut the cable and then put the bike in a van or carry it somewhere to then spend hours/days/whatever pounding on the proper locks.

    If you use a larger lock but only lock to something small it can leave you open to "leverage" type attacks which is often why they don't get the SS gold.

  • I don't really know what parking is like in Liverpool (there are some big fat racks on the high streets that I noticed, but not sure a U-lock would work on them even if I wanted to). Apparently the university has good secure facilities although I'm hoping I can just sneak the bike into my office...

    Probably not worth the risk, anyway. I'll get a Fahg Mini, pair up with the Abus, and glue bearings in the major bolts. Should do it.

    Cheers all :)

  • OnGuard Brute may have a lower quality of finish, but the performance is at the very top level. Build quality counts for not as much as protective quality, and the two are are not actually as connected as one might think.

    There are several extremely well made locks that cannot possible enter the list on page one, because their protective quality is actually too low.

    I don't know of one instance anywhere, that the OnGuard Brute Mini has been broken to enable the theft of a bike.

  • The build quality of the Abus Granit X-Plus 54 is better, but it is no way as strong as the OnGuard Brute Mini. No way. No how.

  • The Abus Granit X-Plus 54 Mini cannot be as strong as the Onguard Brute Mini as the Brute Mini is 1 kg heavier.

    But the Brute Mini has a poor mount, it rosts when used outside and the disc style cylinder is worse than the Abus one.

  • If you mean lower build quality plastic cover on U-Lock, from security point is not important. The most important thing is, what lies under the protective plastic or hard rubber cover.If you completely destroy the protective plastic housing, U-lock is still there to be precise one-piece U-Lock body from hardened steel.On this photo is OnGuard Pitbull, so from security point no plastic cover= absolutely no problem.;)

    OnGuard Bulldog/Pitbull/Brute/old models black-gray plastic cover, today models black-yellow color combination

    http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/accessories/locks/product/review-onguard-bulldog-dt-39853/

    http://gizmodo.com/5922074/the-best-bike-lock

    http://road.cc/content/review/13674-onguard-brute-u-lock

  • that skylock

    " skylock has a built in solar panel that recharges the battery. this means you can spend more time riding your bike and less time worrying about your lock "

    lets hope their product is better than their marketing schpeel

  • I'm still tempted to get one.

  • The plastic covering protects against freeze-gas attacks. Taking it off is not terribly wise.

  • This is the Locks That Works thread,...how the mounts fit doesn't truly matter to lock security.

    On the first page of this thread, its advised that users use graphite grease/lube on their locks. This would be especially for use outdoors. Such a lock might need greasing or lubing regularly, and obviously more in winter than in summer. Then the owner should have few problems.

  • rubs thighs

  • Hello from Canada,

    Thanks for the helpful thread GA2G & company.

    I'm wondering if someone could help me identify the lock pictured in these two images from edscoble way back on page 28.

    M18? NY Standard? Fahg?

    I'm looking to purchase one of these 3 locks and the deciding factor is going to be viability with respect to locking rear wheel+frame to a number of different posts throughout the city. My concern is that the Fahg will drastically restrict the number of places I will be able to lock up my (track) bike using this method (frame+rear wheel+ locking post). I suppose I could use a Fahg for front wheel+frame+locking post and a supplementary cable or d-lock for rear wheel? Anybody using this method?

    The size of the lock in the images below looks like it will allow me the kind of convenient range of locking possibilities which I desire (for frame+rear wheel+locking post).

    Thanks again. !

  • Fahg, and Evolution Mini (orange)

    If your frame tubes are skinny (steel) you could possibly use the Fahg on the rear-triangle and wheel.

    If you're looking for one lock, I'd recommend one big enough to lock front wheel (removed) to the rear-triangle, along with the rear wheel.

  • Thanks GA2G.

    I'm wondering if my frame tubes will be skinny enough (Aventon Mataro frame) and I'm just not certain. I think they might be too wide in most places. I do like the compactness of the Fahg, I just don't know if I'll end up having spend a bunch of extra time searching for something narrow enough in the city to lock up to.

    I'm going to be using two locks regardless, it's simply a question of which of the the 3 (M18, Standard, or Fahg) I'd like to use as my primary lock (ideally with which to lock up rear triangle). And I'd use a separate lock for front wheel+frame.

    I like that the Fahg and M18 are 18mm --but I think the M18 is a tad long for my needs and the Fahg might be a tad short as well as narrow. Also wondering if 2mm difference between Fahg and Standard is really a deal-breaker. Surely if someone has the time and tools to grind through a 16mm lock, an extra 2mm isn't much of a bother?

    Going to go do some measuring now.

    Thanks again.

  • Interestingly, the author of this thread:

    http://www.glasgowfixedgear.com/discussion/1990/how-to-lock-your-bike/p1

    claims (or seems to suggest) that the lock in edscoble's photos is larger than the Fahg. Perhaps he's mistaken? Though he could be referring to a lock which he mentions earlier in his post...I can't tell.

  • An extra 2mm does make a lot of difference actually to the amount of time taken to cut or break the lock.....it is potentially 12.5% extra on top of the 16mm.

    Fahg will lock one wheel. M18 will lock two wheels together, at the rear triangle.

  • Never had any interest in these so missed the discussion. Is there a better coffee stop touring lock then this?

    http://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/micro-lock-64843#ptb-rating

  • http://www.evanscycles.com/products/abus/combination-lock-1150-ec006190 is my preferred cafe lock.

    More visible than that thin wisp of wire and easy to store on a saddle rail.

    Obviously it can still be opened with a gentle cough, but is usually enough to deter the grab and run thief.

  • 210g too heavy?

    Just get a reusable zip tie and be done then.

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Locks that work

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