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On a CX or MTB it's nice to keep the seat tube free of a mech.
On a town bike terrain and speed don't vary and performance doesn't matter.
I'm not sure why you'd compromise a road or touring bike like that. Sounds like an excuse to be a smartarse ;-)
miro_o-
Don't really see it as compromising, unless I really want that 1t jump between each cog like you get on the 11 speed 11-23 cog.
I've been riding predominary on 46t with a 11-28 for ages, it's only when it ramp up over 15% I drop to the 34t chainring, so the majority of time, the 34t see very little action, with the exception of the Pyrenees on a loaded touring bike.
Even with a 34t chainring, it give me the same GI as 40/36.
edscoble
Not trolling, actually thinking about doing that on the road and touring bike.
Touring bike = 40t chainring
Road bike = 44t chainring
Touring = 96-29GI
Road = 107-33GI
(mate with 11-36 cassette; 11-13-15-17-19-21-23-25-28-32-36).