Any question answered...

Any drivers with a bigish van in London free on Monday? Hit me up.

Also looking for drivers with 7+ seater vehicles on same day.

I was thinking more of the upper, as the OO part is 9mm tall, which seems a lot for a "zero"-stack part.

Hadn't considered a different style lower, will have to measure my downtube clearances from the segmented fork. At least the geo's slack enough that it'll probably still be nice a degree or two of steeper!

Update: dt clearance actually plentiful.

A hub with taller flanger further apart would take the same spoke lengths, but I don't know of any searchable databases of bike part specs (shame, might have to create one, future projects etcetc).

I wouldn't reuse spokes after unlacing though, if you're having to re-lace and re-tension you might as well start with fresh spokes and nipples and have an easier decision on the hub.

Whatevs, wheelbuilding thread >>> ;-)

I was thinking more of the upper, as the OO part is 9mm tall, which seems a lot for a "zero"-stack part.

Cane Creek ZS44 uppers are 8mm, which is also non-zero :-)

Zerostack is a lie!

Any that are sub 5mm?

Flat unfashionably-narrow bars, 90mm x 8deg stem (slammed, natch).

I could do with a lighter stem, but that super-low Syncros would lighten my wallet too much!

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Any that are sub 5mm?

Couldn't find anything under 7.1mm (FSA, natch)

I think you can bin the upper cover and run the stem directly on the upper bearing collet, like all the hardcore stem slammers in the pro peloton
Nacer Bouhanni

Ryder Hesjedal

IIRC, somebody once enquired about a slam-that-stem cover for a Zero Stack, but didn't go ahead as it was only going to gain about 2mm on their set-up. You could have a lok at your upper cover and see whether there's a worthwhile amount to be had from yours, I'm about to produce a batch so it would be easy enough to add one sized to suit.

You could just go for a -17° (or even steeper) stem if you want to get lower.

I'd like a disc Eno eccentric hub but can only find non disc ones on ebay.

I don't think there is a part in existence that will adapt the splined cog interface into a disc mount is there?

Could I drill a cog and bolt a rotor to it? Any idea if that'd put it in even remotely the right place?

Recommendations for framebuilder/ workshop that could do some low key frame mods (dimple a chainstay for clearance, cold set stays (and check alignment) and braze on some cable guides?

In south east London preferably, elsewhere in London could work.

I have an old steel frame with a 28.6mm seat tube. I need to fit a modern Veloce front mech which is a band on 32mm.

What's the best way? Is there a shim for this...or do I need to source an older 28.6mm clamp and marry that with the new front mech.

I've got some Ritchey WCS carbon risers that are a bit too wide for my liking. I'd like to cut off a couple of inches from each end to get the fit right. However, there seems to be some sort of small internal shim in each end that is glued in and extends about 2cm down each bar end. I guess this is for reinforcing the bars if you want to attach MTB bar ends, which I'm not going to do. Will I die a horrible death if I cut the bars?

I found this shim on SJS cycles.

Vaz and his brother?

Good shout, thanks - they've said they can do it.

Thinking of buying this fork, but would need to drill out the front and rear of the crown. Would that be safe with the welds on the back as they are?

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Did it to my Pompino fork, still alive.

Quick question on distance selling regs...

I bought a bed online Wednesday, and then annoyingly noticed that it got reduced by 25% in Friday.

Spoke to their in store team who were useless, but claimed that I would have to pay a £35 stocking charge... But from what I can see I am well inside the 14 day cooling off period so should be able to cancel for free and reorder at the lower price? Just want to make sure I am reading it right before calling again tomorrow...

Pretty sure restocking charges are bullshit.

Check the T&Cs of what you ordered, if they clearly state they will charge one they might be able to get away with it. If not then they can't, I think.

sram quickview - mine never held my garmin quite straight, a frustrating few ºs out. And then it began to rattle. Plus it was the only thing I owned that required a Torx head. Now using a Barfly 2.0, which holds tighter, uses an allen key and while looking a bit cruder does the job better.

it was the only thing I owned that required a Torx head

Get used to it, Torx is the future. More an more bike companies are finally realising that there's a much better driver interface out there than Allen key.

Get a braze on mech and a 28.6 braze on adaptor.

Get a braze on mech and a 28.6 braze on adaptor.

That makes sense - spend £40 on a new dérailleur and a new clamp, rather than £4 on a shim :-)

Id fitted mine before I read this. I now can't tell whether its off a fraction or if its just because you mentioned it.

I suppose it'll distract me from my other constant niggle of whether my shifters are slightly out of line or whether one arm is longer than the other.

Any realistic wattage saving from switching from a sealed BB (Campag Centaur) to a traditional cup and cone BB (Sugino 75)?