Road Wheels & Road Wheel Recommendations?

I clearly didn't put much thought buying these as they were too cheap .. just got them for strava segments and the baller deep section carbon look ..

Recommend me a half decent tub that wont break the bank if this removable valve core thing is a deal breaker I might as well need to get them.

Any of the usual suspects, Vittoria Corsa, Schwalbe One. You have a £?k bike with Di2, don't scrimp on the only thing that's connecting you and your power to the road.

7's have brass nipples, PG round spokes and steel front axle. 5's have alloy nipples, bladed DB spokes (2.0-1.6-2.0), front alloy axle and a diff. rear hub with machining. Both share same rim.

Dunno but I've just ordered the 5 LGs. Cheap on bike-discount.de

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Link me to deals from Germany or something? I am not good at 'buying' these days :(

who wants 3x rally tubs 25c black for £20? Stretched, never glued

letmegooglethatforyou.jpg. I can only get away with so much internetting at work.

Who is the resident buyer these days?

I figured there was no real difference. Only in the way the hub and spokes meet.
Ordered some campag 7s from wiggle at 118! Bargain.
If they alright I'll leave them on the commuter and get some more for the nice bike.

Tubs aren't really any cheaper from Europe IME, apart from Schwalbe. PX and Ribble often have good discounts.

My Campagnolo Sciroccos, which are basically an older Racing 7,. have been flawless for 2 and a half years, and they were used when I bought them. Finally worn the rims out though.

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Yeah I got siroccos too! on the commuter, bombproof.
But they're narrow and I wanted wide rims to keep fashionable.

DT Swiss R460 anybody?

16h rims - what are the options?

My DA 7850s have worn through completely.

Part 2 of that question: if I buy rims that have a different ERD, I just need to buy spokes that are +/- 1/2 of the difference, right?

anyone really struggle getting tyres on wide rims?

Ive never had a puncture in 3000+ miles which if this expericence is anything to go by very fucking lucky.

I just spent 40 mins removing a tyre, putting on an old tyre to use on the turbo. I then went to swap back and have spent the last hour bleeding and sweating trying to get the tyre back on. Ive snapped 2 tyre levers, mashed 2 inner tubes and still dont have the tyre on.

What am I doing wrong??

Which rim?

Pacenti SL25

Tubeless compatibility seems to make everything much harder (assume SL25 are tubeless ready?)

In the latest version of the SL23(?), Pacenti claim to have increased the depth of the tyre bed to try and compensate.

Pinch the tyre opposite the side your trying to work onto the rim, so it sits deep in the rim, work your way round.

Also. What rim tape? I have some SL23's i struggled with as well. The rim tape that was installed was too thick. Get a thinner rim tape (Velox) and make sure the bead sits in the center of the rim (deepest section) when mounting the tires.

rim plugs, cant remember if I read that makes it worse? anyway, that pinching technique helped a bit. Another 15 minutes of swearing and a metal tyre lever ( poor rims :( ) and it's on.

I then put a new tyre on my fixie skidder in 2 minutes

Put one edge of tyre on in middle of rim.
Put inner tube in.
Start from opposite valve and start putting tyre edge back on rim.
Work way around to valve last
When it gets tight, go back around rim and make sure tyre edge is in middle of rim as its shallower so less circumference
Pull tyre from opposite valve so it's stretched around rim so you get more tyre near valve
Now put on tyre at valve. Use thumbs to push it over. Can be a bitch.

You can apply more force using your palm instead of thumb (not easy with the palm method on deep section carbon wheels).

Bang on, that's my method too, also sit on tyres depressing both side 90 degrees from the valve to "open" up the gap on the valve.