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Flooding is an assumption, the precise sequence of events is:
- Driving in heavy stop/start traffic
- Car is idling
- Engine stops, too fast to poke the throttle to try to keep it alive
- Won't start
- Pop the bonnet, wait 10 mins, starts on the first spin, runs absolutely A1 thereafter
- Driving in heavy stop/start traffic
Dammit-
Could be vapour locking? In theory it shouldn't happen with a good fuel system but I've definitely had heat related problems with my Aeromotive A1000 (I'm guessing with all the new GGs you have an aftermarket pump too.) Check mounting of the pump, pump controller function, fuel pressure regulator and fuel lines running past any hot spots under the bonnet.
Jung
Bear in mind that's the sort of list I had with the Merc and I never did solve the problem, but:
Things which get hot in traffic but not when moving - sort of rules out anything connected to engine temperature, as cooling system is working fine. Therefore, look at electrical components - switches, sensors, valves, connectors etc which live in the hotter parts of the engine - on an NA car that would be the exhaust side, but on a turbo it might be other places too.
With wiring, older cars get brittle insulation which then flakes off. When wires get hot they might expand/soften and sag, and you get a short. Sometimes the wires themselves corrode inside the insulation (Italian cars are terrible for this) or sometimes connectors fail (old British cars usually). Could be anything, but wires to and from sensors, relays, etc.
Does underbonnet heat have anywhere to escape? Do you have vents in the bonnet or scuttle? Have you ceramic coated or wrapped the exhaust to keep the temps down?
To confirm the flooding, what are the spark plugs like? black and wet?
Then of course everything might be working perfectly and it's your fuel mapping. If it was a carb I'd be looking at jetting. EFI offers too many variables.