Which Groupset?

One piece machined spider from the looks of it.

sram has let me know that the torque for the 3 torx bolts that attach the spider to crank arm is 10nm

incase anyone else ever searches for the same thing..

So when it wears you have to bin the whole spider not just a chainring. Genius.

And is that a proprietary axle interface I see before me?

I agree it's cheap but 11 speed cassette and chain still cost a bit more than 10 speed in the long run.

there was a 7970 Di2 group on Bike Radar for £500

Just re-read, ignore me

You can't go wrong buying boutique kit with proprietary standards from a company with no history and dubious cash flow/backing, especially if it's a knockoff of something you can buy from a global company for less, that looks better (SiSl2 w. Spider-ring).

I agree it's cheap but 11 speed cassette and chain still cost a bit more than 10 speed in the long run.

RRP perhaps but after discounting they're consistently the same price, if not cheaper. The same with cassettes. Google is your friend.

Is it possible to replace and thread through the inner gear cables on SRAM Red without un-taping the bars and unplugging the cable housing from the tops of the levers?

Provided the gear cable housing has been cut well and is more or less flush, usually you can feed it through. If it jams then you probably have to take tape off etc

Its possible ... Not probable though

Cable is in, but seems to be getting stuck at the inline barrel adjuster at the bar end, for the front derailleur.

Well, that's not under the tape so take it out of the barrel adjuster, take the ferule off and feed through

Got the new cable through but still having problems with the Red YAW front. Too much hassle. Gonna take it to the shop. Patience I don't have. All shops busy or closed. FML I want to ride this bike again now.

Also, does the current Di2 work with all CAAD10 frames or do they have to be a specific model? And I asked before but not sure anyone answered: If I Di2 a CAAD10 with a BB30 BB, will the Di2 work with SRAM Red Exogram, or does it need to use a different sort of crankset / chainring? Cheers.

lol

The hub is a Grand-Bois/SunXCD 120OLD hub that has a chopped cassette carrier, bit silly after you look into the economics of it all if you REALLY wanted to do that. Just buy a 130/135OLD frame.

Just watching Tour of Basque Country on Eurosport.

Magnus Backstedt reckons Tony Martin running a 58t big ring alongside a 34t or maybe 36t on his TT bike.

How does that work? I always thought there was a maximum difference between the two sizes of ring if you wanted any sort of reliability on your shifts.

Is he running osymetrics/q-rings? (someone correct me if I'm wrong) but I thought that ovalised ring tooth counts are higher than the equivalent circular ring. If it's ovalised then the smaller section would act as an effective 54t-ish ring during downshifts.

Only if you shift at an exact point in the crank rotation - the same for upshifts.

That's still a massive jump. Pro mechanics have special powers.

Fair point. I don't think downshifts are the problem here. A well designed/custom ring will have pins and ramps that extend deeper towards the ring centre that will assist large upshifts, but I cbf googling to see what brand chainring he was running. Still, you would need damn near perfect FD alignment to do it.

I've bought a SRAM rival gruppo for a new build but a quick search suggests GXP bottom brackets arent up to much... as in, they turn to dust within 500km.

I need to pick up a new BB as frame is Italian. Merlin has the SRAM red ceramic for an Italian thread reduced down to £40, worth it over a standard steel setup for £20?

Or just ditch the crankset and replace with Shimano? Hollowtech II seems to just be fit and forget, rarely hear problems.

A similar search on 'hollow tech bottom bracket lifespan' will reveal similar Internet stories of bearing failing prematurely to what you found for SRAM GXP.

External BB life span depends on riding conditions, the sealing of the bearings and the installation .. has the BB she'll been faced so the bearings are parallel, is the preload on the bearings to much etc.

Ah, ok thanks. I'll stick with the sram crankset.

I'm planning to take the frameset to skinny eric's and have the alignment checked and BB faced before starting the build. Any thoughts on paying the extra for ceramic?

Might also ask them to install the headset too, doesnt seem right to fit a chris king using my standard 'tool'...

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Those hubs are $180... Against $250 for a complete kit. I think it's a pretty cool idea. Was thinking of cold setting my Pompino to take 130 mm hubs already but this might be an easier solution.