I found the b-tension thingy very important when dialling in my sram stuff. Much more so than with shimano. Can't remember exactly but something like 6-8 mm between jockey wheel and sprocket did the trick I think.
Ah, that might be it. Ill have a tweak of that when I get time and hopefully it'll remove the clunk. All the gear changes fall into the sprockets fine, I just remember the changes sounding smoother on the last wheelset.
I found the b-tension thingy very important when dialling in my sram stuff. Much more so than with shimano. Can't remember exactly but something like 6-8 mm between jockey wheel and sprocket did the trick I think.