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I found the b-tension thingy very important when dialling in my sram stuff. Much more so than with shimano. Can't remember exactly but something like 6-8 mm between jockey wheel and sprocket did the trick I think.
russmeyer-
I found the b-tension thingy very important when dialling in my sram stuff. Much more so than with shimano.
That's because Shimano RDs float on the B-tension spring, whereas SRAM RDs have a fixed stop on the B-pivot.
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Ah, that might be it. Ill have a tweak of that when I get time and hopefully it'll remove the clunk. All the gear changes fall into the sprockets fine, I just remember the changes sounding smoother on the last wheelset.
gbj_tester
roboto
Ha! I'm not a pro with gears, so I don't really change the front ring a lot. My flat is on an incline and I just knocked through gears to glide up the hill. Going up swarns was the first time I've used the inner ring since building the bike.
I don't think the wheels are 11 speed. They were bought off ebay as a used tester Wheelset from a bike shop. The cassette fits fine with no movement.
Might it be something to do with the angle adjustment of the derailleur?