"SONIC boom" (aka Yokel-Motion 2.0)

All go today, with deliveries from the US, Germany and er... Reading!

Less than two weeks across the Pond for the forks is pretty impressive and the good news is that a quick mock-up suggests that the AX will work.

Speaking of which, pretty sure I'll be the only one rocking a drillium AX. #nodtotheoldskool

The only fly in the ointment, is that my clips arrived without risers and they don't look to be commonly available: if anyone can source these I'd be obliged, otherwise I'll have to send them back to Germany and I can ill afford the time or the postage.

I assume I won't be able to reuse the bung in the forks once they're cut, as the stop is bonded in place (I'm reluctant to fiddle with it). Any recommendations?

It's also occurred to me that I need a stem: 17 degree, 31.6mm and chode length. Planet X have this in 80mm unless anyone has anything in their parts bin.

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90mm -17° 3T Arx? Decals removed.

You haz?

I've got a lightly used 1R8 to trade...

I haz both of those. Don't use 1R8s any more, the 2mm difference in S75 and powertap chain line makes them howl.

Forum save: Tester's lending me his riser kit and my hillclimb sprocket, is now umop3pisdn's hillclimb sprocket in exchange for a stem.

Thinking about the steerer bung more, it doesn't make sense for it to be permanently fixed to the top of an uncut steerer.

I guess that the two notches opposite each other (at approximately 12 and 6 o'clock above) are used to close up the gap (9 o'clock above) and release it.

What tool though? Something proprietary? I could chop the top and knock it out easy enough, but bludgeoning it back into place, doesn't sound like a good idea...

Steerer bung, choose option from: create tool yourself taking many hours making something that will squeeze in a circular motion/ take to LBS who won't know either/ take to local tractor repair centre who will hit it/ hit it yourself/ buy hideously expensive tool from Oval.

or

Cut and buy new bung.

Tractor repair centre indeed!

OK, I'll get a new bung (as much as I like hitting expensive things): are they all much of a muchness, or is there CTB approved one?

While you're here: I read something about 5mm of spacers above and below the stem being necessary with carbon steerers. I'm using a Tester top cap which incorporates a 3mm spacer, so I was going to put 3mm below the stem: death in the face or hugs all round?

You don't need any spacers below the stem, just above

Slam dat stem!

Steerer bung: anything cheap that fits, Sigma Sport does one for a tenner that ridiculously mentions sleekness, low profile and etched graphics and also boasts of an alloy bolt.

But first..... hit the original with something heavy (post-cutting) because you will enjoy it, then see if you can compress it with narrow nosed pliers or similar to re-fit. Please post a video of your attempts.

Sleek and etched you say...

This video.

Would you like me to wear anything particular?

A look of rage and frustration would seem appropriate as the bung pings into the furthest corner of your workshop for the umpteenth time.

Clothing-wise, your normal smock and floppy straw hat would be fine.

I read something about 5mm of spacers above and below the stem being necessary with carbon steerers. I'm using a Tester top cap which incorporates a 3mm spacer, so I was going to put 3mm below the stem

The 5mm on top suggestion arises from the fact that spacers thinner than that are rare (<spam>unless you go to Tester's Tuning Shop</spam>) and conventional top caps intrude a couple of mm into the spacer or stem. Just make sure the steerer is clear through the stem, anything over 2mm is just for later adjustment. 5mm under the stem comes from a couple of bike manufacturers who have come out against slammage, without providing any convincing evidence that a spacer between the stem and upper bearing collet really does anything useful to preserve the steerer.

OK, I'll get a new bung

What's the inner diameter of the steerer? I haz 19.8mm glue-in bung left over from when I had a 1" fork

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Filth (but yeah, ok).

I've got a stem cap and spacers from TTS: why not the full suite? [insert endorsement disclaimer here]

The battery on my callipers has died (which is ironic considering the ear-bashing I've just doled out to tomorrow's fellow Audaxers re Garmin vs route sheet/map), but a plastic ruler [don't look at me like that] suggests your leftovers will do the job: PM incoming.

My Tester stem bung worked really well until I tried to reglue it and filed it for extra adhesion and now it slips, recommended (obvs don't file yours)

Getting both surfaces really clean seems to make more difference than keying the metal surface, although a wipe over with some abrasive paper won't do any harm. The Tester Kitchen is always equipped with a big bottle of IPA, for use after any filing/sanding

This kind:

Not this kind:

You can use a pretty fat glue layer with 2-part epoxy, and with the bung I sent you (not the one I'm sending Scilly), you can put a bead around the top to add even more pull-out resistance.

You should be able to get your headset preload dialled in with modest finger pressure on the short arm of the Allen/Torx key, if you're using more than that there's a good chance your top cap is bottomed out on the steerer projection and you either need to trim it or add an extra spacer between top cap and stem.

That's all the crabon fitted, but I'm not sure the seatpost will stay.

It's at +/- the right height and is bang on the min. insert line: post is 350mm, which leaves 100m in the frame.

What should I be looking for as an alternative that won't break the bank?

Drop looks epic though! :)

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http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/brand-x-inline-6061-seatpost-2015/rp-prod120294

Just the job ta.

PS Your stem arrived today, thanks again.

You know that feeling when you're about to take a hacksaw to £200 of carbon...

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... well it turned out ok!

Just waiting on the adhesive to glue the bung in.

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lookin hawt, ss :)

Cheers: faster than me, that's for sure!