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I mean flimsy to work with. As you know if the thread gets slighlty jammed, courtesy of alloy nipples or contaminants, it becomes extremely difficult to turn a nipple without damaging the spoke at the interface between the round and the bladed section. I can only assume the super version to be much worse, in that respect. As I understand, you will save a massive 5-10 grams by going that route... I would expect even the more undeterred weight weenie to think it over...
ugosantalucia-
I mean flimsy to work with. As you know if the thread gets slighlty jammed, courtesy of alloy nipples or contaminants, it becomes extremely difficult to turn a nipple without damaging the spoke at the interface between the round and the bladed section.
I've always found CX-Rays to be the easiest spokes to build with, and that's always with alloy nipples. I lubricate the spoke threads before use, with Mobil 1 10W40 (I have a lot of it so it's convenient) and I've never had a spoke get jammed. In fact, the only time I've ever had spokes jam when building was when I tried using black brass nipples, which were a total bitch to use. Never again.
Brommers
(1) I am, I have a packet of 100 Zipp nipple washers ready and waiting to be used.
(2) Flimsy? Not in my experience. 28 spokes front and rear on my 29er MTB, and they've happily held up through crashes which have left me struggling to walk away.
(3) Yep, read it. Thanks. Seems pretty straightforward.