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• #652
It would be too expensive to get it done properly, and I don't think my shoddy rattle-canning would do the colour justice.
The late era Crimson ones are especially nice though.
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• #653
Cherry red!
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• #654
^ also lovely
Just gunna be difficult to do properly with a Park stand, some news paper and a few spray cans...
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• #655
Nah, not that hard. just got to do some prep work
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• #656
I quote.. "That Saeco Cannondale is fire. I would love a frame in that colour."
At this.
Has to happen...
Tempted to do mine as well. -
• #657
If you're doing yours, want to do mine too? Deep Crimson with iron grey decals would be sew lush.
I agree it's probably possible with rattle cans, prep work and patience, but considering this is now a bodge/frankencarbon roadie, I'd rather go gauche than tasteful.
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• #658
Sand it Down.
Apply some Cannondale decals as guides.
Paint decals With glue.
Sprinkle With silver glitter.
allow to dry.
repeat With rest of frame. But use red glitter.
Apply an epoxy Clear coat....be fabulous
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• #659
You still want that crank puller?
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• #660
My only problem is that I am stuck in a 6th floor flat with no real outdoor space or working area... lovely view, but not great for projects.
I would love to spend a weekend painting and sanding and painting and sanding and making sure I've done the best job I can, but I'm just not sure how practical it is for me. The camo wrap is perfect in that I can just whack it on with a bit of patience, some scissors and a hair dryer.
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• #661
The glitter thing would never work. It was a joke.
I cant see myself ever getting a satifactory finish With a wrap on something like a bike frame. Maybe the Camo pattern helps.
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• #662
Can't polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter...
I think tight DPM camo like realtree works fine, but big panels like the camo I've used previously does look unfortunately choppy at the joins. It's my intention to put a couple coats of dark grey spray paint over the headtube and seat tube clusters when they're wrapped, to smooth out the transition.
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• #663
you really sell it......
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• #664
Got the bike back... dropout looks excellent. Really pleased with it, it's seamless unless you know what you're looking for, and Ed has reinforced the dropout so I can sand it and repaint it if necessary. Top work.
Frame, including half-arsed vinyl, plus bottom bracket, Hollowgrams and FSA standard rings comes to 1617g. Not a bad start, probably puts the frame itself somewhere under a kilo.
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• #665
The only think I really need to get the bike rolling is a new cable set. Is everyone still raving about Yokozuna? Where is the cheapest / best place to get a set?
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• #666
Wiggle, I'll show you my set tonight if you're still coming for that tool?
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• #667
matron!
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• #668
Filth
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• #669
She's baaaaaack
I decided to tape up all the red areas of the frame, and leave the red forks for now. It's immeasurably better than the last job I did, but still a bit shoddy. I'm fine with that.
Off for cabling up tonight. I could do it myself, but Skulls has a dremel and I'd rather get the Yokozuna reaction stuff cut right first time.
Including the cables, bartape and plugs which are yet to be fitted, the bike is 7240g. That's heavier than I thought, but not the end of the world.
I need to take it for a shake-down, firstly to see that everything is working proper and secondly to see what state my back is in after 4 months of no riding and lots of weightlifting instead...
All being well, or at least moderately improved with my back, then I can start improving the aeros and loosing the weight. 60mm 24mm wide torroidal carbon clinchers with lightweight QRs, latex tubes and GP4000's should loose ~200g off the wheelset*, improve the ride and lose some drag.
The stem is loosing 40g with a Kalloy Uno 7 off eBay and Ti bolts. Ti spindles for the Speedplays are also on the way, and ti bolts and knock-off Bontrager carbon cages are on the list. Gunna swap the chain rings too, because these are much too shiny.
I'm going to try out a Romin, and if I like that, then a carbon railed version and a carbon seatpost should comfy up the rear end and maybe lose a few grams. My current saddle and seatpost is 322g, which ain't bad.
Anyone got any other cheap weight saving tips before I get the credit card / drill out? I'm aiming for under 6.8 because I love CRIME.
*2712 down to 2530, including cassettes and all.
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• #670
If the saddle height is 100%, cut the seatpost down a bit.
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• #671
^ could also be said of the fork steerer + spacers.
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• #672
Latex tubes and carbon clinchers are not happy bedfellows
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• #673
Please explain.
Any reference to descending, Alps or excessive heat will disqualify your answer.
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• #674
Didn't I do this already?
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• #675
What expander have you got in the fork? J&L on EBay are selling Extralite 2 rip offs cheap that may cut 15 plus grams depending on what you've got. And while you're looking at that area .. what spacers, top cap and top cap screw?
http://www.duckbrand.com/products/duck-tape/printed-duck-tape/1147