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• #27
Because you want non-indexed friction shifting?
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• #28
Sure - but for me, I'm after gear shifters that can be used with single-speed brake levers (TRP Hylex) and that aren't down tube or bar end shifters. So this work around is ideal.
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• #29
Looks ideal for you, i was just being facetious
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• #30
I did it mainly to be able to mount gears without having to redo bar tape. I guess it looks at little clumsy, but so does bar end shifters. Thumbies with hinges and some good looking shifters is much better looking though.
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• #31
what a great bike. best on the forum in it's class. congrats.
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• #32
Won't be dangerous, least of your concern, I have a pretty noticeable toe overlap on my low trail tourer with similar length too (just over a metre) sometime my feet rub against the mudguard when I'm going really slowly off road on singletrack but it's never a problem, I do like hearing the plastic bottom of the pannier scraping lightly when descending, feel like that scooter in TAXI.
Cannot believe I miss this topic, how the hell??
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• #33
;-)
Thx.
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• #34
I am i doubt though, whether I should build myself a pair of 650b or a pair of 700c touring wheels.
650b wheelset = less trail on original fork, much more clearance for bigger tyres, and an even lower BB for touring.
How low/heigh bb height (I am not talking bb drop) is acceptable on a touring bike?
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• #35
But I already have a low bb
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• #36
But I already have a low bb.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xTGrfs5TXM
In all seriousness, touring bike generally have lower BB, for instance the Surly Long Haul Trucker have 78mm drop.
This one have a mere 235mm drop from BB to the tarmac;
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• #37
Update: Broke my frame at Danish SSCX Nationals...
I have seen a lot of frames with sliding dropouts without support tube, so I thought I would be safe on my frame, since I used mtb stays.
The disc side dropout broke loose. It actually ripped the tubes open.
So I need to fix this by making another dropout that is bigger/longer. And of course ad support tube.
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• #38
Update 2:
I have made changes to the dropouts. Instead of using m10 bolts, I am now using chainring bolts as they seem plenty strong and lets the dropouts slide freely without moving up and down.
I have had issues pulling the threads in they sliders. That shoudn't be a problem now.
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• #39
Update 3:
I have made a steel fork for the bike for touring. Eventually I will make my own using a paris brest crown and bend fork stays, but until I have the time and money this will do.
Modified Kona P2 26" chromoly forks. Added disc mount and eyelets for rack. 410 a-c and 48mm offset (ish). Should give around 57mm trail, which is not perfect bu will do for now. It takes 45c and fenders quite easy. Absolute max is 2.25" so that is brilliant.
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• #40
Nice work!
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• #41
Thank you. Unfortunately it means new paint job is required.
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• #42
Whats the plan in the background? Balloon tire cargo offroad bike?
looks exciting!(i've switched to chainring bolts as well on my sliding dropouts. Works better.)
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• #43
Yes. This was actually you Svend who suggested that I could use chainringbolts.
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• #44
Drawings are of a cycle taxi prototype. Mostly designed from scrap steel frame tubing to test geometry of three wheeled bicycles.
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• #45
Almost done. Needs adjusting and probably I can loose the spacer beneath the stem. 45c/4bar fun!
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• #46
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• #47
Working on a rack for it.
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• #48
I need to make some measurements of the bags I am going to use and think about how it is going to attach to the forks.
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• #49
Awezum
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• #50
All sorts of rad. Takes tinkering to a whole other level. I want those forks!
How have I missed this? Really nice project.