Road Wheels & Road Wheel Recommendations?

wink because #buyer :P

Pot, kettle

I think he's referring to the fact that I purchased them from him ;-)

You're both as bad as each other :)

I've actually got really good at not buying anything. I've had one bike all winter and ridden it lots :-) With that said I am getting two new bikes in the near future hehehe.

Too much temptation floating around the office? ;)

Yeah.... IF be so cheap. Ride to work too.

Obvious question, @dan, but have you tried toeing the pads in so that the front of the pad hits the rim first? That's usually the best way to stop brake squeal.

In my experience new rims with anodising can do this, usually wears off after a few rides.

Yeah - they're all toe'd in. Hopefully they'll just calm down after a few rides. I'll certainly be doing plenty of braking next week.

Jealous. I want these things.

swisstop blue

Blue are specific for ceramic coated rims - not anodised / hard anodised like archetypes.

Use green.

/edit
Hmm - at least they used to be - looks like they have brought out a new "blue" pad: http://www.swissstop.com/tech/compounds/bxp/ for wet weather...

Yep - those are the ones I have. Been fine on everything else.

Blau Blau Blau . . . . . .

Der wahre Heino!

Squealing is just your brakes' way of letting you know they're working.

This actually is the case. They're not quite as appalling as they used to be, but Kinlin still rates around the bottom of the barrel as far as rims I've built, along with the Stans Alpha 340. They're wont to come out either not entirely round or not entirely true out of the box, which makes it extremely difficult to build them well enough to be reliable. H+Sons on the other hand tend to be quite round and easy to build.

As for the braking woes, if toeing and sanding the pads doesnt solve things, the next most likely cuplrit is the wheels being either out of true, or some inconsistency in the brake track. I'd check the trueness of the wheels, and try to isolate the part of the rim where the noise/juddering is coming from, and see if there's anything out of order about that spot. Old non-machined rims had a greater susceptibility to this, which would explain the issues with the MA2s.

You're taking your commuting wheels to Mallorca?

They're not that heavy - archetypes with hope hubs. They're not really commuters, just my every day riding wheels.

I prefer travelling with hand built wheels. Alternative is taking my carbon clinchers with internal nipples and impossible-to-get spokes... Or borrowing my girlfriend's ksyriums. Neither really appeal.

Sanding the pads seems to have sorted the noise - also noticed a bit of lube from the nipples had made its way onto the braking surface so I've given them a good clean.q

Makes total sense. Any time faffing with damaged wheels is time not living the dream in those mountains.

Have anyone built up dt460 rims on a hub yet ? Any good in comparison to pacenti sl23s

I've done a set, and have been pretty pleased. They're very similar to the Velocity A23 in terms of size, and are about as round as those which is better than the SL23.

Thinking of building a wheelset for wet commuting (although won't be London potholes)...thinking low flange Novatec's, CX-Ray (maybe)/D-Light (most likely) on Archetypes, double fixed.

I know I'm asking a really generic question, what sort of spoke crossing should I go for and spoke count?

I was thinking 20/24...but would that be enough for fixed and occasional track use? I'm almost considering going 24/28 with 2x. Total weight of me and backpack <80kg.

I have the hard anodised grey Archetypes with Kool Stop Salmons and they were awful when I first used them. Grabby and juddery to the point that it felt like they were going to break something! I had to baby them, feathering the brake quite a lot. It passed pretty quickly though, probably before the anodising wore away completely, but it only took a couple of decent rides before the brake track was down to bare alloy and braking was exactly the same as every other alloy rim I've ever used.

32h 3x. You'll never have to touch them.

Why skimp on robustness of the main usage is commuting? As @JB says, 32 hole laced 3 cross would be much better for your needs.

28h 3x would be good.

But I'd go 32h