Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

I feel like getting dirty - Can someone elabarote on this conflict? The 'touch' in the 1X cross would be rather subtle I reckon.

I have the dimensions for the Powertap if you need them.

Oh wait, they are in the manual.

Just make sure you measure the ERD on the PX rims.

Can you lace a 24h hub 3x? I went for 2x on mine. It hasn't exploded yet.

I think Powertaps are recommended 2x

24 3x gives a spoke pulling angle of more than 90 degrees. Not a good idea.

found a image (spoke overlaps next spoke head):

Let's do this shit

Sorted

1 Attachment

Yeah that's what I thought...

This might be one for @edscoble

Can you change wheel dishing by just truing it?

#CSB - TL;DR ->>>>

Background:
I have a Hinde Race Series road bike which I have build up with Ultegra 6700 and Mavic Aksiums (2009) fitted with 25mm Continental GP4000S.
I did exactly 18km with the bike before Christmas and everything worked as it should, apart from a slight rear wheel buckle.
No rubbing at the back (apart from one of the brake pads where when the wheel wobbled). Tyre clearance was OK, no rubbing on FD clamp or against rear stays.

My neighbour has his wheels stolen and since I wasn't using the Hinde, I loaned him the wheelset for a couple of months then got myself a truing stand for Christmas. I got the wheels back last month.

I trued the rear wheel at the weekend and managed to do a pretty good job (in my opinion) and corrected the lateral trueness to about 1mm on each side. I refitted the rear wheel and noticed that the radial trueness was way off and and I have a massive flat spot -> this meant that the 25mm GP4000s tyre was rubbing against the FD clamp on the seat tube at the flat spot at every rotation.

Last night, I removed the tyre and I re-trued the wheel both laterally and radially to a pretty good standard.
However, when I refitted the wheel, it looks like the dishing is about 5mm 'too much' on the driveside, which means that the rear wheel is not centrered properly when it is in the dropouts (no adjustments possible).
The tyre now constantly rubs on the FD clamp and also the driveside stay. It appears to be 5mm off centre so doesn't sit in the rear brake caliper nicely.

I was thinking I could deal with this problem by moving axle spacers around to re-centre the wheel, however the smallest cog of the cassette is about 3mm away from the frame so that will not work.

#CSB #WTFHAPPENED?

Views welcome and I will take photos tonight

just loosen spokes on the side that is rubbing and drag the whole rim over 5mm taking up the slack by tightening on the other side

nice. should have been heads-in for unparalleled lateral stiffness:)

Yes. Trumphed by radial viewing angle aestetichs #nospagbol

That's why it's a good idea to use your bike (turned upsidedown) as a poor mans truing stand.

Building a 20/28 (R/2X) t[a]r[m]ack wheelset on these super cheap toroidals (& novatec, competition, brass) http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1Pair-Newest-700C-50mm-clincher-rim-Road-bike-matt-finish-UD-full-carbon-fibre-bicycle-wheels/32245768695.html

You could do 3x on the rear (if you haven't bought the spokes already...)

Yeah - but I believe the rather short distance (high flange+50mm+symmetrical) keeps 28h&2X safe for fixieskiddz.

id advice against a 3 cross considering the depth of the rim and the size of the hub flange, the angle of the spoke at the nipple would be quite steep.difficult to reach high tension ,spoke bending at the nipple , not really good for the rim.

So the spokes I bought working off internet measurements are a few mm too long.

I have shorter spokes in stock but more like 10mm+ shorter.

Before I bother measuring stuff and punting it all into calcs, is 2 cross strong enough for a disc brake wheel?

4x a bad idea if spokes will lie across the hub flange?

is 2 cross strong enough for a disc brake wheel?

Apparently so (see also loads of factory 29er wheels from Mavic and Shimano). It does depend a bit on the flange diameter and ERD, but you'd probably need to be building some ancient tiny flanges into 28" rims for the pulling spokes to be far enough away from tangential for it to be a problem.

4x a bad idea if spokes will lie across the hub flange?

Yes

Gah!

Nothing in my spoke box that'll fit.

This is what I get for trusting manufacturer measurements.

CRC ain't taking my slightly bent 290mm spokes back are they?

Gah!

£8.98 for Spokesave straight gauge spokes then or pretty much double that for DT Swiss double butteds?

CRC may, if you straighten them back as much as possible, make sure they're spotless clean and have them back in og packaging.

I imagine it'd be very hard for them to tell

@M_V What model are your out-of-job spokes?

DT Swiss Competition silver double butted.

Any use to you?

If you have 64 of them and it makes sense postal wise of enveloping them to Denmark.

Only 36 of them I'm afraid.

£8.98 for Spokesave straight gauge spokes then or pretty much double that for DT Swiss double butteds?

Or £13.56 for 36 ACI DB spokes, they're as good as DT.