Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Don't use anything on your brake pads, you really don't want them lubed.

LOL hopefully everybody knows not to lube the braking surface of the pads, but then...

However you can lightly lube the back of the pads to stop squeal, but the lube has to be very high temperature resistant and in the case of hydraulic brakes I think it should be safe with rubber components as, unlike with car and motorcycle calipers, there is no outer boot around the piston protecting everything including the piston seal.

Yeah, copper slip is what is usually used for that but it'll probably end up contaminating things and cleaning and and setting up the buggers properly usually sorts of squeal.

Pulled a bit of fluid out of my front 4pot XT today to open up pads a little bit and it was a pretty horrible looking grey/green/blue kinda colour so presumably not genuine Shimano fluid. Not as rich a blue as Magura blood looks in the bottle but I dunno how this degrades over time.

I'm thinking of replacing the hoses soon anyway so should I just go back to Shinano oil at that point or would there be any risk of a change in fluid fucking up the seals?

The inboard pistons on the front brake don't seem too lively, is popping these out and giving them a clean up an easy thing to do? Can I do this without replacing seals as I imagine they're going to be pretty hard to come by now? If I'm replacing pads and fluid etc anyway is it just a case of pumping the lever with the caliper off and pads out to eject the pistons?

You have all that to do? just burn them with Fire

If the seals have degraded a bit they can taint the fluid colour, although you get compatible mineral oils in green that work fine.

@Howard @edscoble

Thanks for the advice on the previous page, callipers cleaned and lubed and all appears to be back to normal.

Seller got back to me and said it sounded like his work. He's a hydraulic engineer in naval industry and reassured me that regardless of what some I ternst experts might say, mineral oils are all cross compatible.

Yeah, they're mostly the same stuff, some have a few additives and whatnot but you can run them on most stuff that won't eat the seals without doing any harm, a lot of trials riders use water as overheating isn't an issue.

HY rd en route, fuck you BB7s you've been appalling (with SRAM apex levers that is)

I might have budget for a new front disc caliper. I have Hayes CX 5 and preiously had BB7. Would love to try the HyRD, but I have Campagnolo lever and I am worried about lever throw... don't want something that bottoms on the bars to stop me... anyone?

It will work, especially if you have compressionless.

#brokenrecord

with all the upgrades to hydraulic going on if anyone has a nice condition bb7 going i'd snap it up

I had BB7, I want to try a dual piston or semi-hydraulic. I suppose I can order one HyRD, plug it in, see how the travel works on the disc and if I am happy install it, if I'm not return it... just depends on how easy it is to open the packaging without breaking it

Package is easy to open without doing anything.

Just remember to enable the auto-adjust as the first couple of squeeze will touch the bar.

BB7 are awesome brakes, would prefer it to the Spyres if it wasn't for the constant need to adjust the non-moving pads inward, the biggest issues I find is quality control, some work great, whether other just impossible to get it to bite correctly.

I haz, was going to sell it but for you Dicki drop me a pm with your address and I'll send it your way. Do you need a rotor or just caliper?

Pads any good or they need upgrade straightaway? Would prefer something softish/organish

They're fine, but not idea for the winter, replace them with Shimano.

In the bag.
Winter is nearly over... I very nearly saw two daffodils this morning :-)

I have a pair of Shimano BR-CX77's I don't use

HyRD Delivered in record time (less than 24 hours). Now fitted following the instructions. Lever throw is long, but it seems to lock before the lever bottoms. It feels more progressive and nicer than mechanical ones. I suppose even the rattly feel of uneven pad surface will be sucked by the fluid and won't travel through the cable

Anyone bother with those silly bendy lock washer tab thingies you get with Shimano rotors?

I've just fitted a new rotor to the new wheel for the front of my mtb and slung em in the bin but wondered what general consensus on them is?

Bin is where I store mine.

Bin

Right next to the little plastic clips they give you for the caliper bolts.