Any question answered...

Actually, in theory this could work.
For a gear ratio it is not relevant how many teeth the chainwheel has. What is relevant is its diameter in relation to the diameter of the cog.

A circumference of, lets say, 42 teeth is usually a fixed length.
Now what they do, is stretch these 42 teeth over a greater length (by making the teeth smaller, allowing the chain to slip in place) and thus increasing the diameter of the chainwheel, which in turn increases the gear ratio.

I don't think it's a good idea and I don't think it's necessary but it is possible...

I see what you're saying - if the teeth were narrowed such that the difference in pitch could be accommodated throughout the entire length of chain that wraps around the cog, it wouldn't have to skip (although the cog could only pull with one tooth at a time).
I suspect however, that the amount the chain has to slip back is exactly the same amount of 'extra' pull brought about by the increased cog diameter.

A bit too much like a worn chainring.

Then again, the point still remains that for one revolution of the XXteeth chainring, XX chain links have been pulled and they are a constant length.

They have been pulled slightly further I guess. Seems completely pointless.

Anyone know which replacement bearings I need for the Novatec D611SB?

Has anyone seen tried the rennen bmx decimal chain rings? They come in .1 tooth increments I'm not shibbing you.
Opinions from @mdcc_tester ?

I've seen their website, giving an opinion might show them far more respect than they deserve.

Is the chain new?
If you can set it up (smaller tyre) the first few miles will probably stretch the chain (not real stretch, more like settling in cereal, pushing gaps out!) enough to put the old tyre back.

This may only work with cheap chains?

My question, anyone here owned a klickfix freepack sport (or the other freepack backpacks) how much of a stupid idea is a 24l backpack that attaches to click fix mounts?

#probgoingtobuy#boughtone

It's not the tyre that's the problem, there is plenty of tyre clearance, it's that the axle is hard up against the front of the dropout.

Can someone explain why a half link chain is shit?

Extra weight (because all the extra metal you need to have curved plares)
Wears faster (small pins all the way along the chain rather than every other)
Not as efficient (two above combined)
Basically worse in every way important, except for grinding on (because of all the extra metal) and giving slightly more adjustment, which you probably don't need as most dropouts are long enough to take way more than half an inch adjustment.

One half link will be fine. Go for it.

Extra weight (because all the extra metal you need to have curved plares)

I can live with that.

Wears faster (small pins all the way along the chain rather than every other)

I can live with that.

Not as efficient (two above combined)

I can live with that.

It doesn't sound like I will be killed so

One half link will be fine. Go for it.

seems like the answer.

Please could someone tell me how I make my classifieds post not private / locked? I've just realised I've had 0 views since I posted it :-/

You need to ask Velocio to unlock it (in the Moderators thread), or you could simply repost it.

thanks @Oliver Schick

is it the one this one: http://www.lfgss.com/conversations/260846/#comment12037325 ?

I don't think the view count works until someone has posted in the thread.

if aluminium expands faster than steel when heated, why has everyone (2 companies) I have asked to get my seatpost out suggested that they can do it but the heat from melting out the seatpost would destroy the paint job? Surely they need to cool, not to heat?

If you full on melt it out then that doesn't matter.

wouldn't that much heat damage the frame?

I don't think the view count works until someone has posted in the thread.

It says '163 views' in my listing.

if aluminium expands faster than steel when heated, why has everyone (2 companies) I have asked to get my seatpost out suggested that they can do it but the heat from melting out the seatpost would destroy the paint job? Surely they need to cool, not to heat?

The following is a hypothesis, I haven't tested it and it doesn't seem to appear in the literature:
The aluminium expands, the steel tube can happily stretch to accommodate that, but the brittle oxides which are gluing them together will shatter, allowing the post to be extracted. You might be able to achieve the same effect with cooling, but everybody has a blow torch and hardly anybody has ready access to the liquid nitrogen you'd need to get a similar effect, and compressing the oxide bond layer might not even break it as they are quite strong in compression but weak in tension.

The other possibility is that they have just explained the process badly, and that they plan to apply the heat directly to the seat tube while cooling the seat post.

@root Oh ok thank you. I had a big padlock sign to the right hand side which made me think it was locked but maybe the things I'm selling are just too shit

thanks tester

Alternative, cheap, solvent to official one for blue Loctite? So far a little googling says acetone.