Using a file on track dropouts to get a shorter wheelbase.

Has anyone ever added a little room at the end of the dropout with a file so the back wheel can be pushed closer to the seat tube? I'm expecting abuse btw

Just use a shorter chain and/or thin tyres.

It'll be fine but you'll expose raw steel which will rust, though won't become a structural issue for ages because dropouts are so thick.

I mean lengthening the dropouts if they're the only thing limiting how far the wheel can move forward.

I'm expecting abuse btw

:)

haha, whoops. Good job I wasn't trolling

You need an inverse chain tensioner- moves wheel towards ST and maintains tension in the chain.

But what if wheel was already as far forward in the drop outs as it could go but you wanted it closer to the seat tube?

Yeah, hence the inverse bit. The tensioner takes the wheel beyond the physical limit of the dropout.

interesting... i can't picture it though. Are there any examples in picture form? Thanks

ha!

oh, i knew this was a bad idea

:)

Think you're being trolled mate. See: inverse shims

Seriously (honest): what do you expect to achieve?

Assuming you can manage to file both ends straight (and not end up with a wonky wheel), in what way do you expect the millimetres you'll gain to transform your cycling experience?

If you're capable of noticing the difference, I doubt you'd be asking on the internet how to do it.

put on a 19mm tyre start filing once tyre hits down tube unfile it about 1mm and you are golden

Assuming you can file half an inch, which is an immense amount to file... what are you expecting out of such a conversion.
The difference will be nil, but you'll have a frame with zero market value...

but it would now be a custom bespoke fixeh and would gain instant foffa value

@snottyotter you tried this on your polo bike right?

Yeah, it was a pain in the arse to do but worked fine. I wouldn't really recommend doing it unless it's for something weirdly specific like polo. I'd changed my gearing and even with a half link the wheel sat further back than I would like and felt like it affected handling, might have just been in my head but you do quite a lot of turning in polo. I filed some off and got the wheel a little further forward, but only enough to make a certain gear and half a chain link fit in.

you'd be better off measuring and drilling, then just just neatening it up with a file.
With a big pillar drill you can make sure it's even as well.

Filing took fucking ages, even with some dremel help.

Yep, I did some droputs on an old mtb frame and really fucked it up. You live and learn!

I was careful and they're straight, but it's a pain in the arse, a big pillar drill would have been a big help but I didn't have one at home.

I was just wondering if it had been attempted I didn't expect it to 'transform' my cycling experience. If it was easily/commonly done then i may have considered doing it on a beater frame if i got the chance (even if the difference was so minute that if you did feel it it would more than likely be the placebo effect). It isn't even applicable to me at the moment anyway.