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  • Bin parts 5 and 6, fit Slam-that-Stem cover (or some random conical cover from the parts bin) on top of part 4, fit brake hanger to fork crown where it belongs. That FSA thing with the collet to keep the brake hanger locked onto the steerer looks like a horrible design, even if you want to stick with the hanger at the wrong end of the steerer you should replace it with one which uses a stem-clamp style bolt to clamp the hanger to the steerer.

  • Bin parts 5 and 6, fit Slam-that-Stem cover (or some random conical cover from the parts bin) on top of part 4, fit brake hanger to fork crown where it belongs. That FSA thing with the collet to keep the brake hanger locked onto the steerer looks like a horrible design, even if you want to stick with the hanger at the wrong end of the steerer you should replace it with one which uses a stem-clamp style bolt to clamp the hanger to the steerer.

    Thanks. I know you mentioned before I should have the hanger at the fork crown, but I wanted these forks undrilled (mudguard mount is to the underside of the crown) so this is not an option unfortunately for the moment (will be if I decide one day to make the bike lighter with carbon forks, but that's another story)... If like you suggest my struggle comes from a bad design, I now have no remorse butchering the conical compressing ring by removing a couple of mm where it's in the way, this way I know the headset will be properly adjusted... if it does not last I'll chose a better headset next time...
    It's more a comfy tourer commuter type of bike so slamming the stem isn't required... for the moment...

  • The danger with chopping the collet is that the hanger will then be a loose fit on the steerer. Every time you apply the brake, the hanger will tilt the conical headset cover and compress the bearings. That's why you should bin it and get one like this

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