Any question answered...

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  • I have a credit card, that i put a 20 month 0% interest balance transfer of £2000 to0 about 6 months ago, that I'm paying off at £150 a month, i ended up having to use the card for a £500 purchase last month and instantly transferred £500 from my bank account to pay off that so i wudnt gain any interest on the purchase.

    I didn;t think that it would work the other way where that £500 just went to paying off the balance transfer and now I'm gaining interest on the purchase,

    I cant afford to pay off the lot clearly, but is there any way i can pay off the purchases? rather than the balance transfer?

  • Read the small print, some card issuers do that and some apply payments to the highest interest parts of your balance first. Sounds like you got one of the arsehole card issuers. Not much you can do if they are applying the terms of your contract, although I had a vague feeling that when my issuer switched to the nicer terms it was because they had been told to, so it may be worth looking into ombudsman cases to see whether they have directed any card issuers to do that, in which case you have a sporting chance of getting your issuer to be told to do the same.

  • The repayment has to pay off the highest interest part of the debt first. I think this came in in around 2011.

  • Can you find a link to anything stating that?

    I'll contact first direct tomorrow

  • Thanks mdcc, hopefuly the above is enforceable..

  • This is the first thing that came up, point 1 looks to be what you're after http://www.theukcardsassociation.org.uk/wm_documents/Good%20news%20for%20credit%20card.pdf

  • use the card for a £500 purchase last month and instantly transferred £500 from my bank account to pay off that so i wudnt gain any interest on the purchase.

    Did you accidentally jump the gun? Your bank Faster Payment may have hit your card issuer before the purchase did, which would explain why it reduced your transfer balance but didn't pay off the purchase balance.

  • surely you mean type? my apologies, i generally can type/speak but i was tired and in a hurry, and i couldn't find anything about it being a waste of time?

  • It's a waste of time because it's cheaper to sell the wheel you don't want and buy the one you do. Unless you have a CNC lathe in your shed, but I guess you wouldn't be asking if you did. Hed3 hubs are built into the wheel, they can't be taken out and swapped.

  • I've only bloody gone and lost my Photoshop back up disc haven't I?? ahem. Has anyone got a copy I can borrow for a PC, until I find mine??

  • managed to undo the cones and remove the axles from both wheels, swapped it over, the hed3 that was previously a rear is now a front except i am waiting on a skewer, should have stated i didn't mean the whole hub lol

  • @JSSR that just sounds like it's going to fail, if you removed the cones and are running the wheel without them(or the locking nuts or any other parts of them) then the bearings will break almost instantly and then it will grind and the axel will snap after not very long which on a front wheel will send the wheel slamming to one side hitting the brake or fork and sending you sailing over the bars. The cones aren't spacers they are smooth surfaces for the bearings to sit on and the nuts after them hold the cones inplace to not damage the bearings or cones with under/over tightening.

  • its fine i put everything back the way it should be. it seemed relatively simple, and i gave it a spin, sounds ok, obviously the cones are on etc

  • @JSSR one is 100mm OLD the other is 130/5mm OLD, what 30-35mm have you done away with?

  • OLD is a function of the hubs' bearing race spacing and the thickness of the cones, spacers and locknuts on the axle.

    If both spokes use the same size bearings and have the same spacing between their races, swapping the complete axle should work fine.

  • Q
    Does anyone have reference to any statistics as to the proportion of cycling accidents/ fatalities that result from the cyclist not being seen vs. being seen?

  • No idea if those stats are recorded, when looking it to motorcycle stuff a few years ago but if you get sufficient details of the accident you can make an educated guess.

  • Bah. Picked up a Sturmey FCT20 42T crankset online from Rutland for my pub shingle shpeed and the q wobble on the chainring is about 1.5mm. Before I throw it back in the mail with curses, how much is "acceptable" on a budget (£34) crankset?

  • The what wobble?

  • The what wobble?

    It's (sigh) what your mum does, but on a tiny, tiny scale...

    @mdcc_tester That actually IS useful...

    Shimmed the chainring, all sorted.

  • Anyone know where I can get a 35 or 37 tooth 48 spline chainring? And also some black track chainring bolts, for a different build of course.

    Thanks in advance

  • Can I (should I?) cut a carbon steerer with a hacksaw? How would they do it in the shop if I took it in to be done?

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Any question answered...

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