Any question answered...

SJS should have some, and better selection too.

Personally I'd prefer a separate switch to the USB port as USB ports aren't weatherproof. Either you have the 'full beam' switch on the handlebars and risk plugging a USB plug in in the rain, or you bury it a bag (so it's away from water) but can't switch between full/dip beam.

I've got the remote switch for my Luxos under the top tube (and generally under a tri bag) so it's out of direct water. Never had anything plugged into it in anything worse than a shower though - I'd probably swap it into the tri bag if it was getting properly wet.

I almost never use the switch though - the Luxos has a bit of a mind of its own, so I just leave it switched on to do its own thing. I sometimes switch it off if I'm parking (and then forget to switch it on again later): I think it's only real other use would be to flash someone in daylight, ie going from the daytime running lights to full beam for a moment.

As for rear lights, the Luxos (and every other B&M light I've seen) has terminals to connect a rear light, which will then switch with the headlight.

Anybody know where I can get a busch muller 470h bracket for mounting my headlamp?

I'd avoid that one and go for the stainless wire version they're shipping with the Luxos, Cyo and other fine dynamo headlights.

That one says it's for the Fly, but AFAICS it'll work with any of their lights - certainly looks identical to my ones. (Shorter versions also available.)

They have the short version:

I hadnt though of looking at other brands though. There is a Schmidt one which may work:

Does anybody with a Schmidt know the bolt diameter and the length between the two mounting faces?

This is the model I would highly recommend, very solid.

It is indeed,

cheapie chappie did do a continuity test, but i also dont know if it was on just the thermostats or on the elements too, he said his tests were all fine

The most obvious thing then is that the deep element is broken, the top one works, which is why we have some hot water that then gets colder and colder over a 5 minute shower.

Thanks! that was very helpful

Can anyone suggest a decent "man with a van" to help me move most of my worldly possessions from Kew to New Malden?

That one came with my lamp.using that I can either clear my headset or my mudguards. As illustrated by Peter White:

I'd take suggestions on alternative (maybe handlebar or stem) mounts.

I've used Gary Jennings (http://www.vanandman.com) four or five times to move house and he, or one of his team, have always been reliable.

I chose it for convenience and cost, but like tester said I don't think it's as reliable as a hub because of the contact method, though it claims 70% efficiency.

If one is after a serious touring thing for charging and all that, it's probably more of a risk. Not sure how long it's been around, but it's only recently been approved by the German StVZO.

I like it though.

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/171864/?offset=150#comment11971724

So if it was a conical tyre with a more rigid material, it would be better?

Some camber would help with the scrubbing, but unless you get clever with the compound, using harder rubber to reduce hysteresis usually gets you less grip, so then the drive would slip every time it go wet or dirty.

What is the best material for a winter bike frame? Idle curiosity really. I leave my bike at the train station and want to get something that won't die because I've ridden it in the rain and then left it over the weekend without washing it down.

Frames survive longer than everything else, it takes a surprisingly long time for even the most neglected thick steel tube to rust through.

Thanks Tester.

i have a rear hed trispoke and a busted front hed trispoke, how exactly would i do about taking the bub out of the broken one, and the hub out of the rear one and converting it into a front?

.

If a steel frame was crashed is it likely that it would take nearly a year to crack?

uh oh......

Has one of your ex-frames exploded?

Depends on how much use and where the frame has cracked.

HT junct, probably around 1000 miles since the crash with no creaking and no signs on one when I cleaned the frame last week.

Knew it was too good to be true at the time :/

i have a rear hed trispoke and a busted front hed trispoke, how exactly would i do about taking the bub out of the broken one, and the hub out of the rear one and converting it into a front?

1. Learn to read. There are already several threads about what a waste of time it is to attempt H3 conversions.
   
2. Learn to write.
   

1. Learn to dance the mamba.