ISO Hubs / Bolt on cogs

@spotter how did you get on with those?

@spotter they're made by novatec, should be decent, only thing that put me off is the m6 bolts on the rear

only thing that put me off is the m6 bolts on the rear

There's a good chance that the 10mm axle out of a Novatec A166SBT will drop straight in, BDOP sell them as complete kits (axle+spacers+lock nuts+track nuts) for $25

True, but one of the draws for me was not having to carry a spanner/lockwhip when riding.

Though someone on here has used those axles fixed with success. So may well stand up to the abuse

I have the regular version of that hub, it's never slipped once.

Aside from the weak clamping provided by the M6 screws (which is a complete non-issue if you use chain tugs anyway), the bolt on axles looks stronger than the nutted ones.

I'd like to convert a 15mm thru axle front hub to a bolt-on 10x120mm rear. Are there any options with off the shelf parts, or getting an axle custom machined about the only option?

I basically just want this but 120mm rather than 135mm

i vaguely remember phil wood using quite chunky axles, but the chances of them being the same dimensions as your hub, as well as bearing widths is pretty slim. Mack should be able to knock up a decent axle

Are there any options with off the shelf parts, or getting an axle custom machined about the only option?

Never seen an OTP kit, but the custom work is very simple. This one is offset to fit the chainline on my Tandem, but equal spacing each side gives a 41.5mm chainline.

What sort of price would I be looking at for a one off like that? Also, I was wondering what sort of file formats machinists work with, or is just a plan old drawing okay?

For something that simple, you can sketch it with a Sharpie® on the back of a fag packet. I think I paid the machinist £40 for the axle + spacers, using my own material, and the bolts were about 50p from the local shop.

You can either leave the spacers loose or spec the ID to give an interference fit on the axle, according to preference. The hub gets squeezed between the spacers when you tighten the bolts, which is why the axle needs to be a smidge under 120mm.

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Excellent, thanks. Is that half a mm usually bang on for loading the cones, or do need to tweak the bolts a little to remove play in the bearings?

That's a Shimano HB-M758. The bearings are set on an axle with a 15mm bore that passes right through the hub, so bearing preload is unaffected by normal amounts of bolt tension. I wouldn't touch anything which had it's bearing preload set by mounting in the fork with a ten foot pole.

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@mdcc_tester
May I ask who you used to machine your axle?

Pulse Racing, but I always suggest going to your local shop if possible.

Hi, i resume this thread just to give you some news.
i've been doing some axles to convert 15mm thru-axle "PP15" hubs to fixed.
In italy we use this system a lot, and many of us (me in the first place) find that is better than the tread-lockring sys.

I've made a bulk order from a mech factory here in milan and then just sell the pieces.
As anyone who's been in this field would know, make a single (or a small amount of) piece is very expensive, so the bulk order was made to be able to shave off the prices.

I've sold more than 150 axles now, and everyone is happy with it.

I hope this will help you all. I'll just leave here my facebook page. Feel free to ask anything.
Not interested in selling to make any money out of this, but just to help and occasionally drink a beer from the roundings to the prices, and obviously the kudos.

https://www.facebook.com/HaeroComp

http://www.fixedforum.it/forum/topic/68906-asse-universale-per-conversione-mozzo-iso-pp15-gruppo-dacquisto/

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I did a home made version of the XT one using a Hope Pro 2 front hub and some spacers etc from Velo Solo and a 10mm axle. Drilled out the Hope QR end caps to 10mm and used some turned down cones to sit inside the end caps to limit the tension on the bearings from the axle when tightened on the drop outs. Worked really well

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I'm interested in getting a Cotic escapade as a fixed winter beater with the ability to run it with gears for touring. It's 135mm Spaced. Instead of getting a separate fixed rear wheel could I just get a geared disc rear wheel (10 or 11 speed freehub) bolt on a cog and flip it around for fixed?

I appreciate the aesthetics might not be great but would it work in theory? The issues i can think of are chainline + possible wrong forces on the spokes?

The issues i can think of are chainline + possible wrong forces on the spokes?

The spokes are fine, when you flip the wheel round the spokes which were the pulling spokes for your brake retarding the bike are still the pulling spokes for your sprocket accelerating the bike.

Chainline on a135mm ISO rear hub should be about 53.85mm with a ⅛" sprocket, that should be pretty much spot on for the outer ring of a 2× MTB chainset, but quite a bit too wide to work well with a road chainset.

Yep figured as much about the chainline. Want to use an existing track crankset i have so that rules it out

Just found some Novatec ones on Aliexpress

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-Quality-chosen-32-Holes-bicycle-bike-hub-MTB-Road-mountain-Bicycle-bike-Novatec-D566SBT-Hubs/32443847603.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10065_10130_10068_433_434_10136_10137_10138_10060_10062_10141_10056_10055_10054_10059_10531_10099_10530_10103_10102_10096_10052_10144_10053_10050_10107_10142_10051_10143_10526_10529_10084_10083_10080_10082_10081_10110_10111_10112_10113_10114_130_10078_10079_10073_10070_10122_10123_10124-10531,searchweb201603_9,afswitch_1,ppcSwitch_3,single_sort_0_default&btsid=db9ee00b-a2b3-41e4-aade-4b13937db522&algo_expid=5b49c8ae-b737-4f34-b66f-20761658bc60-10&algo_pvid=5b49c8ae-b737-4f34-b66f-20761658bc60

also inside the eu (for more money):
http://www.only-highend.biz/epages/63221174.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/63221174/Products/OH-000062

Those hubs are a bit nicer in some regards, you get allen bolts with a cap instead of track nuts.

yes, and fixed threading according to the description (hard to see on the picture).

I built a set of them up for an ESB I owned, they were really nice quality, I was pleased.