Help required with project - 1980s RALEIGH KELLOGG´S FRAME REYNOLDS 501

I think I should contextualise myself somewhat, more so for those that want to help me - Those that wish to be negative, fuck em.

1. You don't need to justify yourself
   
2. The people who are being rude are being rude because they reckon you are not a new member of this forum, but are an old member of this forum who has registered a new account and is pretending to have bought a bike to make a project out of specifically for the purposes of trolling them
   
3. I'm not really sure why they think this about every new member of the forum, but there you go
   
4. It's your frame so do what the fuck you like with it and do your best to ignore the LFGSS Poirot Crew, they will get over it (eventually)
   
5. Because your Raleigh is from 198-something you'll have an interesting time getting stuff to fit, but it will be good practice
   

Thanks guys

Good news is that the crack is not a crack. A quick rub miraculously erased the mark, so it appears that its sound after all.

I'm sorry to disappoint those who thought I was someone I am not. I hope to be far more boring than someone who'd waste time trolling.

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Good news on the crack front, I'm guessing ODP or Scrub?

andy

It needn't cost an inordinate amount of your hard earned money to put something decent together.
I own 3 Raleighs, I doubt if they cost me £300 quid each. My latest is a 3040 Como effort - a good solid, reliable winter hack. I aid £40 for the frame. I added a new set of lightish wheels £120 and built up the rest with second hand parts, Total cost £250 for a bike which will go through the grime of winter and perform light touring duties. Don't rush in to your build. Look through the classifieds here and other sites and ask if you have problems. In my experience, forum users are only to eager to help. Good luck with the build.

Oh c'mon: "I own fourteen bikes and would like to spend two grand on a fifty quid frame."

And "Er... this is a wind-up." is hardly rude, either in the context of what I have written in the past, nor the forum in general.

OP: your money, your choice; but throwing money at something isn't doing a job properly and won't teach you anything you couldn't learn by making cheap mistakes.

Case in point: Dura Ace brakes. Beyond basic Tektro calipers you're not buying better braking (which is surely what brakes are all about), just lighter and more flashy materials: spend your money on Swissstop/Koolstop pads and (eg) Transfil cables.

You say you don't need a cheap bike, but have started with a cheap (and outdated) frame and no matter how much money you throw at it, it will always be that: cheap (and outdated).

If taken at face value, you are both educated and have considerable experience of a wide range of bikes: are you really surprised that flashing your money around, whilst playing the ingénue, isn't universally welcomed?

What do you mean flashing my money around?

I simply stated a budget - you seem hellbent on putting a negative slant on that. I cannot help that.

Ive ridden a raleigh 501 for years and i love the thing. Id love to see what 2K could do, just leave swarovski out of the equation.

If you come on here and say that you plan to do something foolish, then people who strongly advise you against it, actually have your best interests at heart.

Dr Troll, I'm not shocked that you ride alone.

Good news on the crack front, I'm guessing ODP or Scrub?

Neither Andy, I'm a medical devices rep

Ive ridden a raleigh 501 for years and i love the thing. Id love to
see what 2K could do, just leave swarovski out of the equation.

The 501 is just a start. As I said, I have my reasons, but its an evolving project.

Haha, fantastic thread!

If you're wanting to learn more I'd recommend painting it yourself, building the wheels yourself and building and tuning the whole bike yourself. If you've got a stable of bikes and this one doesn't need going into action immediately I'd recommend taking a step back a little and researching the hell out of things before you buy anything.

I can understand what you're trying to achieve but simply spending a lot of money on some high quality parts isn't going to give you the education you are craving. Learning about tyre thicknesses and pressure, bottom-bracket fitments, bike fits and cable lengths and generally what things do and how they effect the finished product will teach you more. I've taken on mini weight-weenie projects before where I've stripped and drilled components and made modifications. There were guys running bikes 1/2 the weight of mine stock but I had a huge amount of fun modifying the parts and learnt a lot, I knew the bike like the back of my hand.

Don't worry that it's just a 501 frame, most bikes built with 501 have cheap and flexible cranks, bars and wheelsets which don't do them and favours, with all these parts replaced with quality modern parts you'll have a real nice bike.

A great source of information is Sheldon Brown's website.

Thank you James, appreciate your comments.
I am in no hurry and will take your advice to research thoroughly any components I feel will 'fit' the project. Sheldon's site is huge, and a fantastic resource.
I do expect to make some mistakes but that's half the fun I guess.
I'm heavily tempted by one of these frame building courses. I have a couple of steel made to measure bikes and was fascinated by the dynamics behind the geometries which differ greatly, one being a tourer and the other a race machine.
I don't know how far this whole project will take me.
I guess I'm rather anal about quality - ex avionics technician, so used to military grade and now in surgical sales, so again quality is king. I guess it's in my make-up. I'm very much of the thought-school 'buy cheap, pay twice'. I get the frame being contrary to that but there is good reason - the whole episode is a study. The frame/s are merely a conduit. It will be upgraded, but only when it's served it's purpose.

Hi 700x23,

If the frame's a Raleigh Kellogg's Pro Tour 12, there's an old catalogue photo here http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=225814 which could give you some ideas of how to build it up. It's a crappy photo, but you can just make out that it was originally built up with Shimano components.

I'm not sure what groupset that is, but if the frames from 1988 you could always upgrade to a nice Shimano 600 groupset, or even Shimano Dura-Ace with your budget.

If you want a good resource for info on components http://www.velobase.com is fantastic.

For what it's worth, I'd keep the steel forks to match that frame.

Money's great! Bikes are better!

Hi 700x23

I bought a Kellogg's pro off ebay and I like it quite a lot!

The guy I bought it off had owned it for years and had upgraded to to 8x2 using ultegra 600 and 105 dt shifters and put some mavic cxp30 wheels on. The original weinmann calipers were still on and I replaced these with some dia-compe brs101 brakes. I had wanted to put some ultegra Hb5600 calipers or 105 5055 calipers which had spare on but the drop was just a mill or two too short. You may want to check the drop required on your frame before you buy any calipers!

Putting high end groupset and wheels on is fine by me as they can always be moved onto a better frame later on. I would say it is probably not worth putting too much money into the frame though so a cheap powder coat would probably do.

I did have some nice deep section carbon wheels on for a short while and it did look good and attracted quite a few positive comments from complete strangers anytime I stopped! So go for it put what you like on it and enjoy

Thanks Guys.
This is very much a preliminary frame. Its not the end-point.

jonH, I am intent on just a clear lacquer for the 501. Have no desire to restore to its former glory, or any of that bollocks. That may come later with a better build.

You intend to buy top-of-the-range components because you don't want the bother of upgrading, but buy a budget frame you do intend to upgrade?

I thought the object of the exercise was to learn about the maintenance side of things and how to put a bike together?

Clear lacquer is pointless: it will corrode beneath the lacquer. If the question is "what's a cheap durable finish", the answer is "powder coating".

If it's 126mm at the rear (the standard OLD for 5 to 7 speed), then it's entirely possible a ten/eleven speed cassette will foul the chain stay.

If it's Eighties, it won't take brakes with recessed, Allen head mounting nuts.

Etc, etc.

And it's not a Raleigh.

So, for those that are interested, here is the project so far.

Kinetic One forks, Chris King 1" headset.
Thomson Stem, Ritchey classic bars, Oury grips.
Dia Compe, Dirty Harry levers to
Super Record calipers front and rear.
Dura Ace seatpost to Brooks Cambium.
Campy cable tidies.
3 spoke Campy Strada 170 crankset.
Record Bottom Bracket.
Mavic Open Pro on Miche hubs. Decided to utilise the wheels from my Dave Yates.

In my opinion its looking bobby, but each to their own.
Biggest expense was the 67 piece Park Tool set and box.

It's obviously not 80's as it does take brakes with recessed, Allen head mounting nuts. My bad!

No major dramas yet, just a load of fun. Most of it achieved whilst on Xanax.

Thanks to those that have sent positive messages and to @Dick for some of the tools.

Will add pictures just as soon its done. Just needs brakes wiring, steerer cut and hopefully jobs a good un.