Dolan Pre Cursa / PreCursa / Track Champion

Bauge can defo whip skid, Forstemann did a pretty good skid prior to this trackstand

Top centre in the Misfits t shirt is me.

Long time it seems scoble.

Bb question pertains to chainring size. I use from46 to 51t. All sizes in between. Seen a 103 bb and it looked like it had chainring issues. Friend ended up using a 107 bb. This was on the his two week old fresh out the box Dolan pre Cursa. That's why I ment it.

I think we all saw Bauge whip skid that ONE time.

But let's be real. I'm talking about multiple times on a single journey or day.

Anywho glad to see so much passion and interest still here.

Utfs. The answer you seek is in this thread.

BB length depends on what cranks and hub you have and not really what chainring you use, go for the correct chainline and if your chainring doesn't fit then get a smaller one or go through the effort of respacing and dishing your rear wheel as well as changing BB length.

Also if you need chain tugs because you skid then you must be doing something wrong, I've never needed them no matter how much I've skidded*, maybe time for new track nuts?

*apart from that time I didn't do my wheel up tight enough but that was user error.

But let's be real. I'm talking about multiple times on a single journey or day

Okay think about this way, see that German with the big fuck off thighs, he probably practises standing starts repeatedly, the amount of power he puts out is nowhere near the amount it takes to whipskid.

listen to what everyone is telling you, you don't need them

But let's be real. I'm talking about multiple times on a single journey or day.

A poor mechanic blame his tools.

Got the 15mm and 14mm spanner

Okay, now just use it to do the wheel up really tight and forget about the chain tensioners.

Decent track nuts combined with the alloy inserts in the track ends of the precursa frame means the knurled nut digs into the alloy and no slipping. I have used precursa frames for a few years and never encountered problems with wheel moving in the track end.

^ Do u whip skip tho!?

also learn to slow down without fucking whipskidding

^ Do u whip skip tho!?

without chain tugs? - are you mad

my wheel has never slipped when whip skidding, am I doing it wrong?

Have you cause a collision due to riding badly yet?

not yet.

:(

Then you're doing it wrong, go whip skid an old nun, then help her cross the road.

I have one of those MKS 8mm chain tensioners. Doesn't fit my (2011) Pre Cursa. Combined thickness of frame track end + replaceable steel insert is greater than 8mm, so cannot be fitted without prior modification.
This guy seems to have managed it (on the inside of the frame)...

(more: http://www.pedalroom.com/bike/dolan-pre-cursa-track-bike-15147)

... So must assume this frame/insert combo is <8mm. Maybe newer models have thinner dropouts because this isn't possible on mine. Also, that rear hub is secured with weedy M6 bolts, so probably does need the assistance when DAWSing or whatever it was called.

If it arrives and doesn't fit, you could:

• cut off the end of the insert, but then you'll have to fit the tensioner on the inside (as above), with the possible bonus that the tensioner won't want to sit flat against your dropout. Frame will also look weird with part of the insert removed.
  
• grind down the entire thickness of the insert (bench grinder + belt sander?), while causing abrasive/heating pain to your fingers. You could file it, but it would take forever.
  
• file the tabs from one side of the tensioner, which will make the part want to skew away from the dropout.
  

Ooh and forgot to mention that: as the tensioner is designed for BMX (i.e. dropouts stubbier than track frames), if you want to slam your rear wheel, it's unlikely there will be a safe amount of thread engagement inside the tensioner (which relies on a reverse thread and a normal thread to wind the wheel back), because it isn't very long. You'll risk stripping it.
Good luck anyway.

It suppose to go on the inside.

That guy better off getting the Phil Wood Chrome Dome (only need just the one) to stop it from slipping, that bolt in the picture is TINY.

Well you learn something new...
Was using Profile Racing ones on a BMX before that one, so fitted in same orientation (outside) and worked fine.

If you think about it, the surface on the inside is smooth, which mean that all the force will be pulling the chain tugs.

Hence why it should be mounted on the inside, while letting the track nuts (proper one) grip the track end.

Schooled.
Or, the opposite way. A DA hub outer locknut is knurled while the track nut washer is smooth, so put it on the outside. Same difference. Depends on hubs I guess, and the thickness of dropout.
Still, I agree these are unnecessary on a track bike.

Hi Guys,

I just wanted to share my experience with you after buying a Dolan frame.

3 years ago, after cycling daily on my canondale i opted for a single speed fixed wheel build, got all the parts as you do, top of the range and a canondale frame. Unfortunately it didnt have the horizontal drop so the guys at Perlie Rides, e8 (great guys) recommended a Dolan....i got it, built a fixed wheel and for

2.5 years enjoyed cycling. Until all of a sudden the frame snapped at the chain stay, which didnt just happen over night had been manifesting its self all the while.

4 weeks ago visited perlie rides, where they carried out the full inspection to verify the frame snapped at the chain stay, contacted dolan guy called frank, who frankly doesnt give a damn...explained the frame snapped in heavy london traffic, lucky to be alive, etc....dolan very surprised their frames break

3 weeks ago back and forth sending photos, proof of purchase, etc. unbelievable a steel frame snaps in 2.5 years, defintely not a vintage...lol, attitude of Dolan sucks....cant believe they are trying to blame This Dolan frame is clearly not fit for purpose. Frank at Dolan our frames dont break, ah yes they do ---

2 weeks ago sent the frame back, one week no reply....

today emailed no response, called oh we sent a reply email this am, hmmmm no you didnt....oh what bike was it the broken one, oh Mr Dolan do you get many broken bikes!!

Im not holding my breath that i will get a replacement frame, and nor do i want it...i just hope that my fellow London cyclist can avoid dealing with such a horrible, deceitful company and worse still avoid the mishap of a broken frame while commuting in London.

If i get the frame returned, not holding my breath about that either --- then does anybody want a broken dolan frame, or maybe just maybe a replacement dolan frame ---- i dont think i will put my good bike parts on such trash, think i will save for a proper frame!!!! lol

Thanks for reading!!!

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So you had a £100 aluminium frame for 3 years riding around London and it snapped? Not to be rude, but that sounds like a pretty good run for a basic frame

This.

Dolan frame aren't the best, and some does actually cracks (it been documented here in this topic) in similar place.

Just ditch it and buy another frame.

i just hope that my fellow London cyclist can avoid dealing with such a horrible, deceitful company.

lol.