Any question answered...

Going insane here.....

So I recently got a new road bike (second hand), and it was so much fun untill I got a puncture. I thought ahh it's grand, be sorted in no time..... no.

I've snapped 5 tire leavers, fixing puncture is not something I'm bad at, at all. But this tire (conti super sport) is being an ultra dick. It's causing me so much stress and frustration.

I've tried every trick known in the book and it just doesn't seem like it wants to get back on the rim without a pinch at least. It's so stiff that I can't even take it off the rim completely to try and strech it. So i'm giving up, I need a new tire anyway as its on its way out.

So my question is can anybody recomend me something decent thats not gonna break the bank. I guess I need a folding bead tire right? I've been looking up on Chain reaction and they have the conti ultra sport, with the folding bead, but is that just the same thing as I already have?

Rubino pros. The Super Sports and Ultra Sports will puncture every five miles after about 300 anyway. If you can find a ditch that's on fire, I'd suggest throwing the Sports in there - it's what they deserve.

been riding 28c rubino pros 2 weeks now, feel good so far

I've snapped 5 tire leavers

Can you post the pictures you took of whatever was leaving the tyre?

Sumo gave me a tatty 25mm Rubino Pro on a wheel to 'protect it in transport'. About 2000 miles on it apparently. I put in another 3000 before it punctured.

@Vlad you can use folding or wire bead tyres you will just need the right size, the ones you took off will likely be 700x25c (look for writing on the tyre) and you can just swap to any other ones that will fit your rim so 700 x 23-25-28c will likely all be good. More recent ones I have had vittoria rubino pro slick 23c/zaffiro pro slick 23c/randonneur 28c, all went on/off my mach 1 rims fine without levers(just seating it in the tyre well and working it). The rubino ones I have been commuting on for a few hundered miles with like 1 flat, zaffiro went on a bike that's just done a couple of light trips to the shops, randonneur on a bike that's built and not got to ride yet. Also had the rubino non pro wire version which was an awful tyre, the low range can go really low in vittorias.

Seems a good price atm.

http://www.merlincycles.com/vittoria-rubino-pro-3-folding-tyre-buy-one-get-one-free-47115.html

Update: So I kept wrestling it but I was getting nowhere so I thought maybe I should try swap the tires between the wheels as on the front I had a gator skin. So I managed to get the conti on the front with no pinch. Then when I finally put on the gatorskin on the back, I was failed with a pinch, although it sounded very small due to the speed of the deflation and sound, but I still pinched it.

I now realise the problem maybe be more so in the rim rather than the tires? the front rim i have is a Mavic Open 4 cd. and the back is a Rigida SHP 6 or 60, not too sure as the sticker is messed up. Kinda bummed out because I don't have much spare cash for a new wheel, especially a back one as it may be more expensive.

edit: language

Rims with less dip between the inner walls will give less slack in the bead. Thicker rim tapes make beads tighter too.

Patch the tube and try again, you will suceed.

It is the start of your journey to becoming a bike mechanic, lover of onions and fervent proponent of compressionless brake housing.

Haha I've gotten well used to fat 47c sliding of without anything, completely forgot how frustrating these tight cnuts are. Anyway I'm done for tonight I think. leavers are gone, the last 2 plastic ones I had have bent to the other side, and have become useless so I'll have to pick up more tomorrow.

Thanks for the input guys, much appreciated !

I'll have to pick up more tomorrow

I swapped a worn out Conti UltraSport for a new one on my dad's training wheel in about 2 minutes without using any tools at all
#boastpost

Learning the technique is much better than buying tyre levers.

@Tree_Trunks something like this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XUFVrl0UT4

http://jimlangley.net/wrench/flattiresbyhand.htm

utfs:
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/214455/

Even with good technique, you need a fair amount of strength with some rim/tyre combinations, I suppose some people are never going to be strong enough.

Watched that video earlier, but even still had trouble. When I put the super sport on the front I used zipties, I would say that it went on slightly easier however that could have just been the differemce in the rims.

I'm looking for a resource, hopefully a map, that shows underground cabling; such as electricity, fibre optic, telephone wires; sewerage, mains water, gas supply etc etc. anyone know of any such resource? Specifically in the Folkestone area but the site I'm interested in is 1.4x.4 km, so a map'd be great!

Ordnance Survey OpenData?

You may have to go to each individual utility and ask

Can someone help my brain out? I'm trying to wrap my head around some pretty simple and logical physics....

Say you have a normal size wheel, 28" for example with a rimbrake.
now you have the same setup, same rimbrake, but on a smaller wheel, say 20"
is the braking power of the brake stronger on the big wheel or the small wheel?

Now, since the point where the brake grips relative to the rotational mass of the wheel is the same on both wheel sizes (brake grips at the rim) the braking power should be the same. But then the rotational mass of the smaller wheel is smaller, so does the brake work better on the smaller wheel?

Now this hasn't really got a realistic background, i've just seen these 20" road bikes with rim brakes and got thinking.

isn't this why bigger diameter disc brakes work better?

are you comparing two bikes going the same speed (where the small wheel rim is turning faster) or two different sized wheels turning at the same speed?

Well of course without context this doesn't make much sense.
Let's say, two bikes, same speed, same weight (weight saved by smaller wheels is compensated by riders belly fat)
So yes, the smaller wheel would turn faster. And thus be harder to stop. But it's lighter and thus easier to stop.
I guess the difference is negligible, but it's interesting nonetheless...

I'm after a set of high quality metric spanners / wrenches. Any recommendations?

Halfords Professional range are meant to be very good.