Current Projects chat and miscellany

Yeah, I might move the high limit screw a bit closer to the chain. Unfortunately this Cannondale frame is from 2012, so it came with 6700 generation or later - the cable stops aren't tapped to have inline adjusters. Inline adjusters were amazing on my last frame! Will have to take it for a spin and do some aggressive shifting/cross chaining to see if it jumps off again.

Most people ran the adjusters in the cable run as they exit the shifters - this works regardless of which frame. Something to consider when you next change cables.

stripped the decals orf of the 70's nag, need to get sticky shite orf now, and proper clean frame up, has slight sounds of particles inside although no exterior corrosion or dents, so will vacuum inside,then spray protective wax inside tubes
will get period decals,fill accents in , then clear coat, so will look ''original condition''-ish,
found a 76 nuovo record mech, and have prepared the worn, unfeasibly small 3ttt period stem for polishing pre bull bar arrival
frame is a saronni-esque red, so either yellow with balck border decal

or this

i'm feeling the black on yellow at mo tbh, i have a black brooks swift and carradice rear bag that need using, so the saddles' brass studs should juxtapose nicely with the red of the frame
also, need to ascertain whether is mexico or super

are those cranks just carbon wrap or solid ?

Got my repaired vivalo back from Neil Orrell. He replaced the top and headtube for me, had to heat the BB shell to get the remainder of the NJS one out. Charged me a very reasonable £60 for all this, then fitted the headset I brought with me while I waited and didn't want any money for doing that. Told me some cool stories about him and his mates touring fixed decades ago too. Great guy, and there are some bargains in his shop, including some lovely track frames (a couple of triple triangles too!)

Built it up with parts bin bits and some other random acquisitions, rides absolutely lovely, and fits me so well. The only reason I bought the frame in the first place is because as a T-rex this 57/53 is pretty much what I would get if I went custom.

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really smart that

Neil Orrell. He replaced the top and headtube for me

seems very fair price, i need tubes changed on couple of projects,does he have a long waiting list and do you have contact details for him please?

http://www.neilorrellcycles.co.uk/

He is based in manchester so not sure how that works for you. He initially told me 2 weeks for my frame but it ended up taking 4 because he didn't finish it before he went on holiday for a week.

cheers for the link, will see what he says, will give me a good excuse to eat a meat and potato pie if I bring by hand!

this is the damage, quite nasty,like it's been gripped to tight in a clamp

this one just has one, and was tig welded,without luggs, so welds are visable so may just fill as don't want un uniform weld in comparison to the rest of the joins

Worth asking him if he can match the welds, saw some alu frames he had built in there with visible welds so he doesn't just work with lugs.

ok, great, will do

thanks again

(would rep)

get a two piece stem with matching clamp diameter, round off the edges of the clamps. lubricate heavily bot the tube and clamps. clamp it on tube so it has about 3mm play in non-dented part and gradually spin it towards dent. tighten the clamp when needed.

this is how it will look like after filling

A photo posted by Sparrow Cycles (@sparrowcycles) on Mar 3, 2014 at 10:14am PDT

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thanks ! that fill example looks proper, brass, not the space age plastic hardener type
''Brass filling today"
now there's a term that could be misconstrued in some quarters

Right, picture the scene - you run a tubular on the rear wheel and have hte option of clincher or tubular on the front. Solely considering practical factors (puncture kits etc), would you elect for a clincher or tubular on the front?

Am I being thick for even asking this question?

I've been quite lucky with p*nctures, though always had a spray foam cannister thing ready to use, though it's never been called into action

Both the same, means you only have to carry one type of kit.

Both of same - I carry a spare tub in my pocket, easy.

Shitty picture but steed now fully winterised.

To do:
1) get some proper pedals/shoes - hopefully a bargain second hand pair of speedplay ti's
2) new tyres when summer comes
3) new cockpit when summer comes/funds allow me to
4) learn how to cut bar tape properly
5) source a low stack headset cover for 1 1/4 headset
6) cut steerer
7) acetone stem and bar decals

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8) install the front mudguard better

Decent bike; get used chromoly speedplays and replace with ward Ti/ebay Ti spindle. Buy new cleats and keep on kovers.

Shouldnt the rear brake cable route from NDS? Where is the second bottle cage?

I didn't even realise that was put on so bad , will be done.

And yes, it should, poorly set up by shop. It's getting re-cabled after winter, so will have to wait, unless it bothers me so much I change it ASAP. Second bottle cage is in the post.

Get the lifeline performance cable set; nice and not pricey (also compression-less)

Orbea lobular ready

Ta

You don't need to buy anything to sort that cabling. @amey is lfgss chief #buyer (so has a rep to maintain). It's a 3min job with an allen key.