Current Projects chat and miscellany

@truli has a -17 110mm 3T for sell

Use alien 270 post and 3t arx team, easton carbon riser, c rec cranks, hed 3 corima aero 24h on mack, Hutchinson intensiv kev 25, arione...

Nice frame go HHSB Thrusty.

bike almost in full winter wear.
anyone suggest a nice front mudguard??
not loving the wet sock feel first thing when in Uni.

I'm looking into mud guards myself.

What about this one?

http://www.rose.nl/artikel/xtreme-mud-jack-race-front-spatbord/aid:114465

Not the best maybe, but for that price you really can't go wrong I guess.

@Sumo

Nice nice bike. Wanted to paint my genesis in fluro colour.

Get a hacksaw or dremel on those mudguard arms tough!

Nice nice bike. Wanted to paint my genesis in fluro colour.

Get a hacksaw or dremel on those mudguard arms tough!

Cheers. Yeah I know I need to, just haven't got round to it yet.

Sold Batavus frameset and got myself Fausto Coppi to replace it. Previous was 60x57 cm which was too large for me. This is 58x56 and fits just right. Seatpost is 3-4 cm too short depending on pedals and shoes, so searching for 27.0 seatpost. Basicly swaped frames with 10 euro extra cost.

extra pics here: http://www.pedalroom.com/bike/fausto-coppi-20181

I was lazy about doing mine. But then I cut myself on it!

at that price you can't really go wrong
and id say you could cut it down if the shape was wrong.
canvas shoes and no front mudguard definitely a no no.

New rear wheel on the pub bike...

Road bike slowly becoming winter ready. Proper set of lights on the way and will be investing in roadracers Mk2's soon.
first time riding in about a year, so working on flexibility, hence saddle position.

At the risk of sounding scoble-ish; flexibility has nothing to do with saddle position.

Saddle position is relative to pedals/BB area. Stem length and how long and low you can get is a mix of flexibility and core strength.

Bike looks serious fast.

Ta, ultimate stem slammage should be coming soon hopefully.
Correct me if i'm wrong, but doesn't hamstring tightness etc. have something to do with saddle position? And what's this about core strength?

@amey is right. Moving forward/backward works different part of your legs yes but generally get your saddle in the right place, then put the hoods where you need them.

My bad. Perhaps better thing to say is "testing different saddle positions, still bedding the bike in properly".

I'm buying a new crankset for my SSCX project and I need some help deciding. I can buy a FC-M590 Deore Crankset with BB but without chainrings for €25 or a FC-M610 without BB but with Chainrings for €40, I'll have to buy a BB for that so that will be another €15.

I won't be using those rings so is it worth paying €30 extra for a newer generation crankset?

IIRC The m610 is hollow so should be lighter and stiffer.

Why not road cranks?

I have stem cap.
PM me

@daveaa
I want narrow wide chainrings, most of them are made for 104 cranks. Or the ones I can afford at least.

RaceFace, Wolf tooth, Absolute Black?

All of them mucho more expensive than Superstar:

http://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/i-o-chainring-narrow-wide-style.htm

Ah nice find!

Not a huge difference between 590 and 610 generations imo, just graphics and styling. There is another deore crank that has all the rings mounted inboard like XT/xtr

ok come on now, wtf is a wide-narrow chainring

@TijmenK your q factor will be higher than with road or track cranks. This may or may not bother you but just thought I'd mention it.

Why are you going narrow wide? Planning gears later? Any SS ring (taller teeth, no ramps etc) will work.